You will be happy to know that Johor Bahru has a new destination, especially if you have an interest in history and Indian culture.
I am interested in South Indian cuisine as the root of Southeast Asian cuisine, so this new centre is a good additional resource for me.
Yay.
I wandered into Arulmighu Raja Mariamman Devasthanam (AMRD) Temple at Jalan Ungku Puan. I have been here many times before actually but I will often pop in at familiar places because there is always something new to learn.
Unfortunately, the main temple is temporarily closed for major renovations.
I wandered further into the compound, towards the Indian Heritage Centre. Used to be, only the ground level is occupied by a shiny grand golden ceremonial chariot which visitors can view through glass panels.
They now have a newly opened upper floor with historical artefacts. The friendly security guard and folks around encouraged me to go upstairs for a visit 🙏 The centre opened to public just two months ago.
Along the outside wall hung four pictures. From left to right, the first is a picture of Raja Rajendra Chola who led a naval expedition to the Malay Archipelago in 1025. Rajendra Chola was king during the Chola empire's heyday. Further along, a picture of an ocean going Indian sea craft that plied the maritime trade routes and once ruled the seas between East and West, from China to Arabia. Next, the map of the Chola empire realm during its heyday which stretched from Sri Lanka northwards to the Ganges in India, and eastwards to the Malay Archipelago. Lastly, a picture of the second century AD Hindu temple Candi Bukit Batu Pahat of the Kadaram kingdom (now Kedah).
All are welcome to the Indian Heritage Centre. Entrance is free until further notice.
The Indian Heritage Centre is not a big place - just one room but there are over 100 interesting exhibits about the Indian migrants who settled in Johor. A quick browse shouldn't take more than 30 minutes though the exhibits might retain me for hours of study. The centre is air conditioned, so it is very comfortable.
Here's a small sampling to whet your appetite 😁
The grant for land issued in 1920 to build a Hindu temple at the site beside the Sungai Segget river.
The Indian coolies came to work in the booming rubber plantations of British Malaya (from the 1890s to 1930s). (Of course, Indians have a much longer history in the Malay Archipelago.)
Others worked as craftsmen such as goldsmiths and jewellers.
Delivery men such as fresh cow milkmen were a familiar sight in British Malaya.
Some were bankers.
Friendly museum guide who doesn't speak any English showing me the traditional wooden mortar and pestle used to pound rice and other grains. We understood each other perfectly 👍
Steaming pots for cooking idly.
Top Indian food historian, the late KT Achaya theorised that idly came to India from Indonesia around 700 - 1200AD. That's because India didn't have steaming devices in the seventh century.
Besides the few items I shared here, there are many other fascinating artefacts such as fabrics, cutlery, pottery, games, musical instruments, etc. Come and see for yourselves.
There's a spice garden at the ground level. Of course, spices play a key role in Indian cuisine and culture, and even shaped its history.
When I come to Johor Bahru, I will be checking in at Indian Heritage Centre again. It will help me understand Indian culture and history, a bit more with each visit.
Entrance is free of charge (till further notice), so why not?
Written by Tony Boey on 23 Sep 2023
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my dad used to go there every sat morning and bring flowers from our garden. i don’t know if it’s still there or still as tasty just outside was restoran nilas was quite a treat to have thosai and vadai for breakfast sometimes idly. i highly doubt they will end up charging. usually it’s the honor system. pay whatever you want as a donation. although having said that annalaksmi a charity restaurant started enforcing a minimum 5 ringgit donation. not bad considering it’s an all you can eat buffet
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