When Japan opened to foreign trade in 1859 (after over 220 years of self isolation policy), only three ports were accessible to traders - Nagasaki in the south, Yokohama in central Japan, and Hakodate in the north.
Many Chinese, Russians, Americans, and Europeans set up businesses in Hakodate. Foreign traders left their marks which are still visible and felt today.
When we arrived at Motomachi district in Hakodate city, Hokkaido we were struck immediately by its unique blend of Japanese and European architecture.
There were churches, consulate buildings, European style residences, etc.
The ropeway car station at foot of Mount Motomachi takes visitors to the summit at 334 metres.
From here, we can ride the cable car to a panoramic view of Hakodate city.
Wandering around the foothills of Motomachi, we stumbled upon Marutamagoya まるたま小屋, a cafe just steps away from the ropeway car station.
Stepping inside, I like this place already.
It has that quaint, charming, rustic, homely feel that drops my blood pressure and heart rate instantly. Smell of fresh bakes always make me happy. It's Marutamagoya Russian Cafe modelled after a "dacha" or small wooden Russian vacation cottage.
The menu and counter on the left, once we stepped into the cafe.
Marutamagoya まるたま小屋 serves Russian and Eastern European cuisine. Japanese chef-owner Kitami Nobuko is a Russian culture enthusiast-extraordinaire. She followed her passion to Russia and Ukraine, and opened Marutamagoya in 2015.
We took a walk around the spaces before we settled down to the food.
So many beautiful spaces, I think regulars all have their own secret place here. The atmosphere was calm and serene, ideal for private, me-time or just cooling our heels from walking the hills of Motomachi.
I like to hide among books, the smell of books, and scanning the titles is like my mind wandering in the woods. A walk in the woods is forest bathing, a mind roam among books is equally refreshing mind bathing.
There are many cosy, inviting nooks, you get the idea.
My set was known as Crugli's Assorted Delights Set for ￥2145 (SGD17.25).
Borsh - pork bone soup with soft chunks of beetroot, stewed tomato and a large dollop of sour cream.
Stroganoff - a Russian icon of strips of beef and mushroom sautéed in a sauce of mustard and sour cream.
Marutamagoya is best known for their Pirozhki, freshly baked yeast leaven bun filled with minced meat, and stewed cabbage. It is a staple and popular street food in Russia, Ukraine and Eastern Europe.
I know nothing about Russian cuisine and haven't had the chance to visit Russia yet. So, all I can say is I enjoyed the soft, pillowy crust and generous savoury sweet meat and cabbage filling.
Russian visitors have told owner Kitami Nobuko that her Pirozhki is better than those in their hometown 😄
I want to try the other Pirozhki with different fillings, if I have the chance to come back to Motomachi again. Marutamagoya has a signature venison and Ezo-mushroom Pirozhki which I really want to try - eat one for me when you are here please 😄
Walnut-shaped sweets
Crumbly buttery biscuit with a sweet caramelly filling.
Calpis soda - healthful probiotic, sourish drink of water, milk and lactic acid (fermented).
After our lunch, I continued looking around the house, drawn to the interesting knick knacks scattered at every corner.
There's so much love and passion in everything in this little house.
Couldn't resist requesting for a wefie with owner Kitami Nobuko. I always respect people who live with passion.
So, if you are taking the ropeway car, just walking around picturesque Motomachi, and need a place to eat or chill out, I recommend Marutamagoya まるたま小屋.
After lunch, we wandered around Motomachi. It's a great place to walk, especially in the summer.
The summer weather was wonderfully sunny at around 25°C. Greens, hills, punctuated with beautiful, well kept, historic buildings.
Looking up towards the peak of Mount Motomachi with the ropeway car station on top.
Many Hokadate public buildings sport Western style architecture.
Looking down towards the harbour at Hakodate Bay.
The old warehouses at the harbour (built in 1909) have been repurposed into stylish retail, entertainment and F & B spaces.
Monument erected in 1935 (Showa 10) to commemorate Emperor Meiji's visit to Hakodate in 1876 (Meiji 9).
Restaurant name: Marutamagoya まるたま小屋 ロシア料理店
Address: 2-3 Motomachi, Hakodate, Hokkaido 040-0054, Japan
Tel: +81138763749
Hours: 11am - 6pm (Weds off)
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These Russian restaurants in Singapore which I had tried but both are closed now:
Dumplings RU at Maxwell Chambers
Rasputin at Clarke Quay
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Written by Tony Boey on 20 Aug 2026
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