We stayed two nights in Hakodate, Hokkaido. This cluster of more than twenty tiny eateries and bars at ๅคง้ๆจชไธ was just 5 minutes walk from our hotel, which was 5 minutes walk from Hakodate JR train station.
The eateries were more like eating booths. Intimate small operations frequented mostly by locals.
Hakodate is a quaint little town. It was one of only three Japanese ports opened to foreign trade during the Meiji era from 1868 to 1912 (the other two were Yokohama and Nagasaki).
Quite heavily touristed, two nights is sufficient to see the main sights around the picturesque port city (mostly within an hour walking distance from the Hakodate train station).
On the first night, SHUKOU ๅฝ้คจใใฐใใใ ้
่ด (ใใ
ใใ) caught our attention. It was a tiny one-man-operation, capacity for seven inside, two outside and it was full house.
The owner came out and apologised that he was full and I replied that I would be back tomorrow night.
We returned the next evening as promised (but without reservations). SHUKOU ๅฝ้คจใใฐใใใ ้
่ด (ใใ
ใใ) was again full but boss invited us inside once two seats became available.
Seven was a tight squeeze. The menu was all in Japanese and pasted on different parts of the counter, above, around and outside ๐
So we told boss-chef (who spoke a little English) to serve us omakase style.
Pardon me that I don't know the exact names of the dishes ๐
Anyway, we had a great time as everyone was welcoming - boss-chef Kubota and fellow diners all squeezed into a tiny box with colours, fumes, smells, laughter and banter swirling all around (despite the language barrier).
The other diners were regulars, boss knew their favourite dishes and drinks.
It's a diverse crowd, all strangers who became kaki kaki huddled elbow to elbow around the counter. Friendly banter with boss Kubota and among ourselves. There were uni-student and mum, teachers, an administrator, a surgeon and nurse. We were the only foreigners. Learned a bit about Hakodate from chatting. Great vibes.
In Japan, most eateries have a token cover charge (otoshi) and they serve a "complimentary" appetiser. Kubota served us egg mayo on stewed vegetables, and it was nice.
Everyone ordered this sweet corn tempura.
Natural sweetness, juiciness encased in very light crisp batter. Japanese corn is top notch.
Sashimi in a glass.
More sashimi (on a platter). Everything was fresh and nice.
Hakodate is famous for their squid which was the main item we wanted to experience here.
Tender subtly delicate soft crunch. Fresh clean tasting, turns creamy rich on chewing. Nice.
Beef steak.
Perfect medium rare doneness. Tender, slightly chewy, beefy goodness.
Kubota calls this his uni-nara spaghetti. The thick rich sauce was made with uni or sea urchin, egg, cheese, etc. Sweet, just gently umami savoury.
The sauce I like though the tagliatelle pasta was done a little softer than my preference.
Another spaghetti. This sauce was more savoury and in layers. Same soft doneness. Let chef know, if you prefer al dente. I prefer chef's uni-nara pasta.
Vegetable salad in a savoury umami sauce.
My favourite pieces were the sweet potato. The broccoli was extra crunchy.
Scallop soup with assorted vegetables. Clean natural sweet and umami savoury flavours.
Deer and horse sashimi. We didn't have these - picture just to show you what was available. The deer was farm raised.
The dishes had French and Italian touches. Boss-chef Shukou, age 63 today, was a chef his entire career starting at a French restaurant in Hakodate. (Meiji era European presence and influence can still be seen in the architecture and restaurants here in Hakodate.)
Chef has a small curated cache of sake.
Kubota showed us his finger paintings.
When one of the customers mentioned her upcoming wedding, Kubota presented her a signed painting as his wedding gift. So much spontaneity and sincerely.
The home cooked style food was good, a mishmash collection reflecting boss-chef Kubota's culinary background, we enjoyed it, and price was right too.
But, the best part was the total experience - vibes, atmospherics, leaving with good memories of Hakodate.
Restaurant name: SHUKOU ๅฝ้คจใใฐใใใ ้
่ด (ใใ
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Address: 〒040-0035 Hokkaido, Hakodate, Matsukazecho, 7−5 ๅคง้ๆจชไธ ๅฝ้คจ ใฒใใใฎๅฑๅฐ
Tel: 07052847786
Hours: 5pm - 11pm (Weds off)
Written by Tony Boey on 6 Aug 2026
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