Tony Johor Kaki Travels for Food · Heritage · Culture · History

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Sai Kee Coffee Kopi 434 in Muar, Johor

I am a coffee lover. No, that's not entirely accurate. I am a coffee addict needing over 5 mugs of kopi kau (thick coffee) every single day.

So, since I started Johor Kaki blog in 2011, I have asking around and looking for opportunities to visit a coffee plantation in Johor, but with no success. So, you can imagine how thrilled I was to have the chance to visit Sai Kee Coffee 434 or Elephant brand coffee plantation in Muar, thanks to Tourism Malaysia Johor's Muar food trail.

Here are the stages of production of Elephant brand coffee at Sai Kee Coffee 434.

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The ripe premium grade Liberica berries ready for harvesting. It takes 3 to 4 years for a coffee seedling to mature into a fruit bearing tree. The ripe and best berries are hand picked - cherry picking, literary.

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Sai Kee Coffee 434 uses the traditional "dry" method to separate the coffee seed and the pulp. The Liberica berries are simply spread on the clean ground in a "green house", turned regularly with shovels and allowed to dry. The "green house" protects the berries from dust, sand, and rain. It felt very hot and humid inside the "green house".

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When the berries become wrinkly and dry (10% moisture left), the pulp and seed are separated (a process known as hulling). The pulp is used as an organic fertiliser while the seed is the much sought after coffee bean.

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To make traditional kopitiam coffee, the beans are roasted with margarine, sugar, sesame seeds and other ingredients. This style of roasting coffee beans is unique in Malaysia and Singapore. Here, workers are air cooling the freshly roasted over 200ºC hot beans by spreading them out using shovels.

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The roasted beans are oily and tacky, caked and stuck to the shovel - a bit like that stubborn used chewing gum stuck to the bottom of our shoes.



Worker transferring the caked, roasted beans in buckets to the separator.

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The caked, roasted beans spun and separated.

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These are Elephant brand premium Liberica beans ready for grinding.

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The final step in the production process - packing the grounded beans into sachets and bags.

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Making coffee at Sai Kee Coffee 434 the old way by pouring boiling water through roughly grounded beans in a white muslin sock. Sai Kee was founded in 1953 by, you guessed it, Ah Sai. The number 434 was the telephone area code for Muar in the 1960s, and today it is synonymous with Sai Kee coffee.

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Our sample of freshly brewed Elephant brand coffee in a styrofoam cup. The coffee was full bodied, robustly flavoured, bitter and sweet. Love it.

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The rather gay and lavish interior of Sai Kee Coffee 434 Cafe at Jalan Maharani in downtown Muar.

(Note: Johor Kaki has no affiliation with Sai Kee Coffee 434. There are no fees for this or any post in Johor Kaki. LOL Sai Kee Coffee may not even be aware of this post :) )

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Restaurant name: Sai Kee Coffee 434
Address: 121, Jalan Maharani (across the road from the central bus station and wet market)
Map: http://goo.gl/maps/TlU3f
GPS: 2.048787,102.567999
Hours: 8:00am to 5:30pm daily

Certified Halal

Date visited: 17 Mar 2013, 25 Jun 2013

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ONE63 European Bistro & Bar in Downtown Johor Bahru



I was thrilled when Mandy from ONE63 European Bistro & Bar invited me to visit as I am happy to see more and more higher end restaurants enter the increasingly exciting Johor food scene. So, soon after ONE63 opened for business, I popped by for a simple lunch.

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ONE63 bistro is located in a pair of refurbished heritage shop houses along the historic Jalan Ngee Heng. 

Singaporean foodies would be happy to note that ONE63 is just 5-7 minutes walk from City Square Mall - just head north along Jalan Wong Ah Fook, once you exited City Square. ONE63 bistro is easy to locate as it is right next to the prominent Hotel Tropical Inn building.

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Inside, ONE63 is well appointed though neither lavish nor pretentious - contemporary European chic, I would say. This is the drinks section on the ground floor. Also on the ground floor, ONE63 has an al fresco dining area. Upstairs, ONE63 has a large dining room as well as an alcova (sheltered balcony) area. 

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ONE63 bistro also has a cosy private dining room that comfortably seats 10 people.

ONE63 European Bistro & Bar specialises in Italian and French cuisine.

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Smoked Duck Salad Appetiser RM23

As I an a fan of smoked duck, I asked for this Smoked Duck Salad appetiser. Tossed with slices of house smoked duck, mix mesclun (leafy greens) salad, caramelised shallot rings, marinated cherry tomatoes, and balsamic vinegar.

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ONE63 bistro is the only restaurant in Johor I know that house smoked their ducks. The thin slices of smoked duck were tender, smooth and savoury. The savoury smooth duck blends well with the refreshing greens bathed in tangy balsamic vinegar. 

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Squid Ink Vongole RM28

I wanted something interesting and yet not too heavy, so I picked Squid Ink Vongole. This a popular spaghetti dish made with linguine pasta, fresh squid ink, white wine reduction sauce, little neck clams, chili, and parsley

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Ahh.. I love those al dente spaghetti enveloped in that exquisitely savoury squid ink and clam gravy. Delicious, delicious. hehehe.... I order squid ink spaghetti whenever a restaurant offers this dish :)

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Tiramisu RM16.30

To wrap up the simple lunch, I had ONE63 bistro's tiramisu for dessert. I was expecting the usual frumpy, chunky slice of cake but was pleasantly surprised that ONE63 serves the classic dessert creatively in an elegant cocktail glass. Made with Italian mascarpone cream and coffee, and lightly blanketed with cocoa powder. Sweet and lovely as good tiramisu should be, and Mandy confirmed that it is alcohol free :)

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Sangria Smooth RM13

For drinks, I had this Sangria Smooth suggested by Mandy. It's a pulpy, icy blend of blueberry, strawberry, orange juice, apple juice, and lime with finely crushed ice. I love it.

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After lunch, Mandy introduced me to ONE63 bistro's Executive Chef Kelvin Lee. Beneath Kelvin's friendly and warm demeanour is an eye popping résumé.

Kelvin, originally from Kuala Lumpur, has experience in not one but two 3 Michelin Star restaurants in France. They are Le Jardin Des Sens in Montpellier and Michel Bra in Laguiole. Kelvin was also the Group Executive Chef / Chef Consultant of Gusttimo World and was the Head Chef of San Marco at The Lighthouse, Fullerton Hotel, Singapore before coming to Johor Bahru.

Kelvin graciously made me a dessert :)

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Food? Art? Food artistry by Executive Chef Kelvin Lee.

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Delectable chocolate mousse with house made ice cream. Oh my, since when did I developed a sweet tooth?!

hehe I already made appointments with Mandy to come back for ONE63's set lunch and dinner :)

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Restaurant name: ONE63 European Bistro & Bar
Address: 163, Jalan Ngee Heng, Johor bahru
Map: http://goo.gl/maps/lg22W
GPS: 1.465643,103.760075
Hours: 11:00am to 12:00 midnight daily
No pork, no lard, alcohol served

Date visited: 28 Jun 2013

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Mee Bandung Muar at Abu Bakar Hanipah Mi Bandung Muar Special, Muar, Johor

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Mee Bandung Muar (MBM) is one of the uniquely Johor dishes that make up the Johor brand of foods. Enche Abu Bakar Hanipah's Mee Bandung Muar Special is one of the best versions of this Johor speciality.

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I was first introduced to Abu Bakar Hanipah's Mee Bandung Muar Special during Tourism Malaysia Johor's 2013 food trail featuring the riverine city of Muar.

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As we approached Enche Abu Bakar Hanipah's stall, the aromas, cooking fumes and buzz at the old kopitiam in busy downtown Muar instantly excited my foodie instincts.

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Inside the typically grimey old town Wah San kopitiam, every inch of the the walls were plastered with photos of the who's who of Malaysia and Singapore visiting Abu Bakar Hanipah's MBM stall.

My salivary glands immediately kicked into overdrive. My taste buds were primed to nearly unrealistic levels.

I am pleased to say that Abu Bakar Hanipah's MBM Special more than met my expectations.

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The secret of Abu Bakar Hanipah's MBM Special is in this sambal made mainly with dried shrimps, chili and spices.

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I love Abu Bakar Hanipah's MBM a lot because of the savoury and mildly spicy gravy. I like it that the gravy is chock full of ingredients and feels substantial and full bodied. This gravy is made with diced cubes of beef, shrimps, cuttlefish, and the signature grainy sambal made mainly with ground shrimps, chili and spices. Some might find it on the slightly overpowering side but it tasted just perfect to me :P

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Enche Abu Bakar Hanipah is a very warm and friendly man who is infectiously proud and passionate about his MBM Special. He also has a natural marketing flare. When asked if I could take photos of him in action, he instantly straightened up and snapped into this well rehearsed pose. After the obligatory picture, I had to gently persuade him to let me have some candid shots of him at work :P

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Enche Abu Bakar Hanipah is the baby on his father's lap. Abu Bakar Hanipah has been helping out at his father's MBM stall since he was a primary school boy.

Abu Bakar Hanipah's grandfather came from Madras, India and invented this special version of MBM. The stall opened in Muar in 1930. Today, Abu Baker Hanipah has two stalls in Muar, one in Pagoh and he is going to further open a branch each in Kuala Lumpur and Johor Bahru.

Helping Abu Bakar Hanipah at the stall today are his wife, daughter and his youngest son.

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Mee Bandung Muar fans will be glad to know that Abu Bakar Hanipah's MBM Special is in good hands with Sabarina poised to continue the tradition when Abu Bakar Hanipah retires.

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When you are in Muar, pay Enche Abu Bakar Hanipah a visit and try his Mee Bandung Muar Special. It's quite a treat at RM4.00 a plate.


Restaurant name: Mi Bandung Muar (Special) - stall in Wah San kopitiam
Address: 69-A, Jalan Abdullah, Muar, Johor
Map: http://goo.gl/maps/4zImu
GPS: 2.050674,102.571642
Hours: 6:30am to 5:00pm
Halal

Date visited: 25 Jun 2013

Gianni's Trattoria in Taman Pelangi, Johor Bahru

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I was invited to the media introduction for the new Gianni's Trattoria which will be opened in Permas Jaya in July 2013. The media introduction was held at the Gianni's Trattoria in Taman Pelangi - a famous and established Italian restaurant in Johor Bahru.

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This was my first time at Gianni's Trattoria. When we arrived we were efficiently ushered to the "Urban Lounge" on the second floor where the media introduction was held. (Next time, I have to come back to experience a lunch or dinner at Gianni's Trattoria in Taman Pelangi - something that I had been planning for some time already :) )

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A big, towering gentleman came in and started to scrape the big wheel shaped block of cheese with a large knife. Chef Hans Durst the owner of Gianni's Trattoria needs no introduction. Without any cue, we started to take photos of Chef Hans performing this strange scraping "ritual".

The friendly Chef Hans then shared with us that this is Parmiggiano Reggiano - the King of Italian Cheeses from the region of Parma of Italy. The unique taste and flavour of Parmiggiano comes only from the special combination of the right cows, grass and climate found only in Parma, and nowhere else. This block aged for 24 months, weighs 150kg. Parmiggiano is available in JB only at Gianni's Trattoria(Taman Pelangi) and the upcoming branch in Permas Jaya, opening in July.

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Would you have guessed that Johor's best known Italian chef is from....... Germany! Hans has experience in the restaurants of Germany, Italy, France, Kuwait, USA, Australia, and was the Executive Chef of Grand Hyatt, Singapore before coming to Johor Bahru.

Tonight, Chef Hans let us have a taste of Gianni's Trattoria's offerings which will be served in both the Pelangi and Permas Jaya branches.

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Parmiggiano on focaccia and bruschetta 

First was the Parmiggiano cheese, of course. The Parmiggiano cheese "shavings" were feathery light. It was a delightful blend of slightly sweet and savoury. We ate it with focaccia bread dipping it in olive oil with balsamic vinegar. I said many times before that with bread, cheese and olive oil like this, I don't need anything else to have a great meal :)

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The Antipasto Platter was a kaleidoscope of carpaccio, Kalamata olives, artichokes, mushrooms, squid rings, melon, ham, and capsicums.

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I am a cheese lover and this Caprese with big globs of creamy Mozzarella cheese dressed with Arugula salad and drizzled with Balsamic vinegar was one of my favourites of the evening.



Rolled Salmon Pizza alla Nobile.

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This Black Ink Pasta Aglio e Olio with Fresh Prawns was just wonderful. I was thrilled by the aroma of the umami seafood flavours as the waiter made his way serving the dish guest by guest down the line - and I was last person drooling and waiting in the line :P I love that thick el dente spaghetti coated with that savoury smooth seafood sauce. I would order this when I visit Gianni's Trattoria.

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Mediterranean vegetables with Australian Angus beef done medium well. Juicy, tender, beefy, just marvellous.

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Mediterranean vegetables with New Zealand lamb. Tender, moist and with that lovely lamb flavour and aroma that makes lamb my favourite meat.

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Sauteed Alaskan Cod. The snowy white flaky meat - tender, moist and mildly flavoured, it soaked up that sweet savoury sauce perfectly. 

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Butternut Pumpkin Soup - warm, full bodied, smooth blend of sweet and savoury. One small cup is not enough for me :P

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Gianni's Trattoria's house made alcohol free Tiramisu. Chef Hans asked us to guess if alcohol was used in the Tiramisu and none us could tell that it was alcohol free :P Flavoured with top grade coffee, just the right level of sweetness, it is very easy to overindulge in this classic Italian dessert.  

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Throughout our evening, Jessica from Gastrolution shared with us the fine points of the fine foods and spirits we were enjoying. Jessica is no ordinary Sommelier. She has worked in an Australian vineyard harvesting and hauling grapes, so you can say she knows her wines from the ground or roots up :)

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One of the fine drinks we had at the event, courtesy of Gastrolution.

After enjoying this sampling of Gianni Tratttoria's delightful offerings, this classic Italian is firmly in my must visit list. I can't wait for their Permas Jaya branch to open :P

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Restaurant name: Gianni's Trattoria (Pelangi Branch)
Address: 101, Jalan Serampang, Taman Pelangi, Johor bahru
Map: http://goo.gl/maps/y7MZf
GPS: 1.484195,103.770943
Hours: Lunch (11:30am to 3:00pm), dinner (6:00pm to 11:00pm)

Restaurant name: Gianni's Trattoria (Permas Jaya Branch)
Address: 9, Jalan Permas 10/2, Bandar Baru Permas Jaya, Masai, Johor
Map: http://goo.gl/maps/4qlHm
GPS: 1.495915,103.816112
Hours: Lunch (11:30am to 3:00pm), dinner (6:00pm to 11:00pm)


No pork, no lard, no Halal cert, alcohol served

Date visited: 19 Jun 2013