Tony Johor Kaki Travels for Food · Heritage · Culture · History

Adventurous Culinary Traveler's Blog with 64 million+ reads 📧

Kiam Chye Ark Salted Vegetable Duck Soup @ Blk 22 Bgain Eating House Sin Ming Road


One of my favourite old working lunch haunts from years ago was the couple of coffee shops at Blk 22 Sin Ming Road. There were many interesting food stalls here, so there's something for everyone. In particular, there were three soup stalls - a bak kut teh stall, a braised duck stall with duck soup, and a "earth jar" soup stall. I've had them all, many times. Of the three, till today I still have a craving for the humble, comforting duck soup or kiam chay ark 咸菜鸭 from Hup Seng Duck Rice stall.

Stall name: Hup Seng Duck Rice

Address: 22 Sin Ming Road, Singapore 570022 (stall inside 22 Bgain Eating House coffee shop)

Nearest MRT: 15 minutes walk from Upper Thomson station

Tel: 6454 3810

Hours: 9:00am - 1:00pm (Thurs off)

Don Don Prawn Mee @ Circuit Road Food Centre 咚咚虾面


Johor Kaki reader Leonard recommended me to visit Don Don Prawn Mee at Circuit Road Food Centre. It is his favourite prawn noodle stall.

Stall name: Don Don Prawn Mee 咚咚虾面

Address: 79 Circuit Road, stall #01-42, Singapore 370079 (Circuit Road Food Centre)

Nearest MRT: 5 minutes walk from Mattar station

Tel: 8642 8641

Hours: 11:00am - 10:00pm (Weds off)

Lai Heng · Shunfu Fried Kway Teow with Otah · Ex Lakeview Shopping Centre 来兴炒粿条


Lai Heng Fried Kuay Teow stall is one of the favourites of regulars at Shunfu Market & Food Centre. It has a loyal following from its Lakeview food centre days since the 1970s.

Stall name: Lai Heng Fried Kuay Teow & Cooked Food 来兴炒粿条

Address: 320 Shunfu Rd, stall #02-20, Singapore 570320 (Shunfu Market & Food Centre)

Nearest MRT: 10 minutes walk from Upper Thomson station or Marymount station

Tel: 91831684

Hours: 9:30am - 7:30am (Mon off)

Katong Dreaming · Musical Tour by Betel Box · Get Insight Katong beyond Clichéd Facades


Betel Box The Real Singapore Tours did it again, taking Singapore walking tours to the next level with Katong Dreaming. Telling the stories of Katong through original songs, verse and dance ably presented by host Mark Tan and movement artist Valerie Lim.

Mind Blown by Grilled Milkfish @ Raffles City · Menu & Review 遮目鱼


Makan kaki Eva originally from Taipei misses the taste of milkfish and was excited when she heard about Milkfish restaurant at Raffles City. We had our makan session there today and were all blown away by the grilled milkfish belly. Milkfish restaurant have other pretty delicious dishes too.

Restaurant name: Milkfish Raffles City 遮目鱼

Address: Raffles City Shopping Centre, #B1-44F, Singapore 179103

Nearest MRT: At City Hall station

Tel: +65 6254 4946

Hours: 11:30am - 9:00pm

KPT Coffeeshop Popular No Signboard Fish Soup · Pork Organ Soup @ 127 Bukit Merah Lane 1


Chef Benny Se Teo told me about this no signboard fish soup · pork organ soup stall at Bukit Merah in the same coffeeshop as Poh Cheu Teochew kueh stall. "Can fight with Mui Siong" the most famous stall for pork liver in Singapore 😮 That's a very serious claim that must be investigated as soon as possible 😂

Stall name: No Name Fish Soup Stall

Address: 127 Bukit Merah Lane 1, Block 127, Singapore 150127 (stall inside KPT kopitiam)

Nearest MRT: 15 minutes walk from Queenstown station

Hours: 7:00am - 2:00pm (break time 10:15 - 10:45, Sat & Sun off)

Rong Fa (Mui Siong) Pork Liver @ Bukit Merah · Same Sans the Queue of Veerasamy Road 榮發(梅松)肉脞面


I am a fan of Mui Siong Minced Meat Noodle stall's thick soft-crunchy pork liver but I haven't been there for a very long time, put off by the hour long queue at Veerasamy Road. So, when I heard about a branch in Bukit Merah Central known as Rong Fa, I quickly went there to calm my liver craving. The two stalls are almost the same in taste.

Stall name: Rong Fa (Mui Siong) Minced Meat Noodle 榮發(梅松)肉脞面

Address: 3752 Bukit Merah Central, Singapore 159848

Nearest MRT: 20 minutes walk from Redhill station

Hours: 7:30am - 2:00pm (Sun off)

Double Happy Bak Kut Teh @ Zion Riverside Food Centre · Taste of Old Singapore Bak Kut Teh 雙喜肉骨茶


This is one of the oldest names in Singapore bak kut teh supported by a loyal following, yet it is has a very low media profile. The first time I tried to eat here, everything was sold out by 10:30am. Today, we got here at 9am to experience Double Happy Bak Kut Teh. I said experience because Double Happy is not only about the taste but also the entire experience.

Stall name: Double Happy Bak Kut Teh 雙喜肉骨茶

Address: 70 Zion Road, stall #01-27, Singapore 247792 (Zion Riverside Food Centre)

Nearest MRT: 5 minutes walk from Havelock station | 15 minutes walk from Tiong Bahru station

Tel: 6836 0816

Hours: 7:30am - 2:00pm (Mon 0ff)

Traditional Teochew Kueh @ Yoon's Social Kitchen · Powered by Women Ex-drug Offenders


Buddy Timothy suggested we meet up at Yoon's Social Kitchen to try out Teochew kueh by Yoon's Traditional Teochew Kueh. When I got here, I realised that Yoon's Social Kitchen is a social enterprise with a mission to empower women ex-drug offenders "to lead a dignified life free from the bondage of drugs through sustainable employment... ". Besides artisanal traditional Teochew kueh, Yoon's Social Kitchen also serve local delights like mee siam, lontong, Hokkien mee, fried rice, etc.

Stall name: Yoon's Social Kitchen by Yoon's Traditional Teochew Kueh

Address: 401 Macpherson Road, Ground Level, #01-07 Macpherson Mall, Singapore 368125

Nearest MRT: 15 minutes walk from Mattar station

Hours: 8:30am - 3:00pm (Sun off | No kueh on Mon)

Sea Cucumber Trade & the Rise of Islam in Indonesia in the 13th Century

Sea cucumbers have long been highly prized in Chinese cuisine for their health benefits. Chinese traders have since the first century come to the Malay archipelago to source for sea cucumbers. The wealth from the sea cucumber trade likely helped established the kingdom of Samudera Pasai which became the first Islamic sultanate in the Malay world. From Samudera Pasai, Islam spread across the Malay peninsula and archipelago. Today, Indonesia is the largest Muslim country in the world with 207 million adherents.

Da Dong Prawn Noodles @ 354 Joo Chiat · Tastes Like Unfried Hokkien Mee 大東蝦麵


Da Dong in Joo Chiat is one of the highest profile traditional prawn noodle stalls in Singapore. Tried it for the first time today as I was in Joo Chiat to run an errand. I enjoyed it as I like its robust savoury umami soup.

Stall name: Da Dong Prawn Noodles 大東蝦麵

Address: 354 Joo Chiat Road, Singapore 427600

Hours: 7:30am - 2:00pm (Tues off)

Sims Place Toa Payoh Branch Chwee Kueh @ Kim Keat Palm · Love the Chwee, Chwee, Jiggly Texture 水粿


After getting our rabbitfish at Mama Bay at Kim Keat Palm wet market, we got this chwee kueh at the attached food centre. I love the soft texture of the chwee kueh which felt like little rice custards.

Stall name: Sims Place Toa Payoh Branch Chwee Kueh

Address: 22 Lor 7 Toa Payoh, stall #01-55, Singapore 310019 (inside Kim Keat Palm Market & Food Centre)

Nearest MRT: 20 minutes walk from Toa Payoh station

Hours: Breakfast to lunch

Origin of Arak Bali · Mongol Invasion of Java & Rise of Majapahit Empire

When in Bali, try Arak Bali, the local traditional liquor (besides the usual international brands). Arak Bali is distilled from fermented coconut flower sap. Alcohol content ranges from 20% to a potent 50%.

Oh wait..., isn't Indonesia a Muslim majority country? How did Arak Bali become a Bali icon along with Babi Guling (Balinese roast pig)?

Where to Get Rabbit Fish During Chinese New Year · Mama Bay 馬媽媽 in Toa Payoh & Teo Heng @ Hong Lim


Eleventh day of Chinese New Year, we went on a rabbitfish trail this morning. No lah..., we just went to our usual places for rabbitfish pilgrimage. (If you know of other good rabbitfish places, please share with us in the comments 🙏 )

Eating rabbitfish is a must do tradition for Chinese New Year even though I am not Teochew (am Cantonese). For more on why Teochew people eat rabbitfish during Chinese New Year 👈 click

Bonding Kitchen · Fine Modern Peranakan Cuisine @ Orchard Gateway


Lunch today at Bonding Kitchen Peranakan restaurant at Orchardgateway. The food was delicious and it was obvious from the finesse of the dishes that chef is meticulous, skilful and committed in bringing forth the best of Nyonya cuisine.

Restaurant name: Bonding Kitchen

Address: 277 Orchard Road, #02-18 Orchard, Singapore 238858 (Floor 2 of the Orchardgateway)

Nearest MRT: 3 minutes walk from Somerset station

Tel: 8860 9087

Hours: 11:30am - 3:00pm | 5:00pm - 9:30pm (Mon off)

Inspirasi Bedok Traditional Soto Ayam


Inspirasi Bedok has one of the better soto ayam or Indonesian chicken soup in Singapore and only for $2.50 a serving (Feb 2022 price).

Stall name: Inspirasi

Address: 208B New Upper Changi Road, stall #01-64, Singapore 462208 (Bedok Interchange Hawker Centre)

Nearest MRT: 3 minutes walk from Bedok station

Hours: 8:00am - 7:00pm (Sun off)

Satay Bee Hoon @ Bedok Interchange Hawker Centre


I've had the curry chicken mee at Hock Hai stall at Bedok Interchange food centre before. I enjoyed it but kept hearing that Hock Hai serve a good satay bee hoon too. Finally tried it today as I was running an errand in Bedok (actually to pick up a book at Bedok library). Indeed, the satay bee hoon was pretty good.

Stall name: Hock Hai Curry Chicken Noodle 福海(芳林)咖喱鸡面

Address: 208B New Upper Changi Road, stall #01-58, Singapore 462208 (Bedok Interchange Hawker Centre)

Nearest MRT: 3 minutes walk from Bedok station

Hours: 9:00am - 11:00pm

A Very Brief History of the Melayu Kingdom

Muaro Jambi Buddhist Temple

There was an ancient Melayu kingdom based in Jambi, Sumatra, Indonesia between the 600s and 1300s. Knowing the history of the Melayu kingdom helps us better understand the roots of Malay cuisine.

Authentic Chai Chee Bak Chor Mee · Singapore Hunchback Minced Pork Noodle Soup 正正菜市肉脞面


This morning I enjoyed a nice authentic Chai Chee bak chor mee and great conversation with Tan Poh Chye 陈宝财, the grandson of Tan Lian Hock 陈联福 who created the iconic soup type of Singapore bak chor mee back in 1923.

Stall name: Authentic Chai Chee Bak Chor Mee 正正菜市肉脞面

Address: Block 83, MacPherson Lane, #01-263, Singapore 360083 (stall in MEETUP@83 kopitiam)

Nearest MRT: 10 minutes walk from Tai Seng station

Tel: 9695 6821

Hours: 9:00am - 8:00pm

Was There Ever a Lanfang Republic in West Kalimantan? 蘭芳共和國

There was once a supposed democratic entity in West Kalimantan referred to as Lanfang Republic which existed for 107 years between 1777 and 1884. It lasted longer than the kingdom of Singapura which existed for 99 years between 1299 and 1398.

Both Lanfang and Singapura were vanquished by foreign hegemons - Singapura by the Majapahit empire in 1398 and Lanfang by The Netherlands in 1884. The story of Singapura is still being told in Singapore but Lanfang has been reduced to an obscure footnote of history.

In 2013, Singapore Minister Chan Chun Sing cited the Lanfang Republic as a cautionary tale to remind Singaporeans not to take the country's long term survival for granted.  So, what was this Lanfang Republic?