History of Thian Hock Keng Temple of Heavenly Blessings in Singapore 天福宫

Visiting Thian Hock Keng temple 天福宫 (Tianfu temple in Mandarin) will give you insights into Singapore's early Chinese immigrants, especially the Hokkien people who make up about half the Chinese population on the island. THK is the oldest and most important temple of Singapore Hokkiens (who came from China's Fujian province).




Thian Hock Keng temple began in 1821 as a makeshift sea facing joss house dedicated to Chinese sea goddess Mazu 媽祖 on Singapore's southern shoreline (in the old Telok Ayer Bay).


Thian Hock Keng Temple Mural

The one to two week sea passage in wind powered wooden junks from southern China to Nanyang was always torturous, often treacherous, and sometimes lethal. So, new arrivals in Singapore were filled with gratitude to sea goddess Mazu for protection during their journey. Praying at the Mazu joss house was among the first things a grateful new immigrant would do in Singapore.

(To put the dates in perspective, Sir Stamford Raffles established Singapore as a British trading post for the British East India Company in 1819).




Temple building work started in 1839 with the Mazu statue from Meizhou city (in Xinghua prefecture, Fujian province) enshrined in the main sanctuary in Apr 1840.



The arrival of the Mazu statue in Thian Hock Keng was celebrated with grand pom. C.B. Buckley captured the festivities in great detail in his book An Anecdotal History of Old Singapore 1819-1867:

"For some days past, the town has been resounding with the clamour of Chinese gongs, and the streets crowded with processions of this noisy race, in honour of a goddess, or the statue of one, that has been recently imported from the Celestial Kingdom, but the procession which took place on Monday was really something worth looking at. It extended nearly the third of a mile, to the usual accompaniment of gongs, and gaudy banners of every colour, form, and dimension. But, what particularly engaged the attention of spectators, and was the chief feature of the procession, were the little girls from five to eight years of age, carried aloft in groups on gaily ornamented platforms, dressed in every variety of Tartar and Chinese costumes. The little creatures were supported in their place by iron rods, which were concealed under their clothes, and their infant charms were shown off to the greatest advantage by the rich and peculiar dress in which they were arrayed, every care being taken to shield them with umbrellas from the effects of the sun's rays, which shone out in full brightness during the whole time the procession lasted. The divinity herself was conveyed in a very elegant canopy chair, or palanquin, of yellow silk and crape, and was surrounded with a body guard of celestials, wearing tunics of the same colour."



(To put the dates in perspective, the First Opium War or Anglo-Chinese War broke out in Sep 1839 and ended in defeat of Qing China in Aug 1842.)


Thian Hock Keng in 1842. Lithograph drawn by Alfred Agate, carved by JA Rolph

Thian Hock Keng was built according to the southern China temple style of the time by master artisans from Fujian, China. The roofs had wide upturned eaves with dragons perched at the tops and corners.



The ornate temple has three halls with an entrance hall, the main hall, and a rear hall as commonly found in such temples of the time.



The three halls are flanked on its left and right by long single storey buildings - the low buildings house the smaller shrines, monks' quarters and offices. A back wall encloses the whole complex.



Much of the building materials came from China. The temple built without using a single iron nail was filled from the floor, through the walls and columns to the roofs with intricate artwork of religious motifs and designs like dragons, phoenix, fairies, lanterns etc (which were thankfully well preserved).



This was how Major James Low (then Superintendent of Police) vividly described Thian Hock Keng in his journal dated 1840 (178 years ago):

"The temple lately erected, of elaborate workmanship and was very curious in its way. The granite pillars and much of the stone ornamental work have been brought from China and the latter is exceedingly grotesque. The interior and the cornices are adorned with elaborate carving in the wood. Outside are painted tiles and edging of flowers, fruits, etc., formed out of variegated pottery which is broken to pieces and then cut with scissors."

When you visit Thian Hock Keng, you might feel as if Major James Low just wrote this today.



Austrian baron Eugen von Ransonnet painted this scene at the courtyard of Thian Hock Keng in 1869. He described what he saw in his book:

"As we enter the courtyard, which is surrounded by a covered passageway, a magical glow blazes through the open facade of the temple. There is a colourful confusion of lights, enormous lanterns with figures and characters, glittering gold, and dark red draperies, and in between mysterious gloom. Around it surges a throng of the Buddha's disciples, with their long plaits, through which we have to make our way to reach the sanctuary. Our eyes are so dazzled that we are unable to see all the magnificently coloured mosaic flowers on the roof.. . One can only see what glimmers through the hazy darkness. The Chinese, more than any other people, know how to use subtle lighting as an ornament to obtain a picturesque effect... ."



The view from the Austrian baron's perspective today. Other than the incense burner, not much have changed.



The hefty 37,000 Spanish dollars needed for temple building was raised by public donations with the largest sum from Tan Tock Seng of Malacca who led the project (as the first president of the Singapore Hokkien Clan Association). Much of the money went towards land purchase.

The Tamil Muslim (Chulia) community also contributed to building Thian Hock Keng temple. Their contribution is acknowledged with several Indian figures holding up the roof beams. Mutual respect and support between different faiths is deeply ingrained in Singapore's social fabric since its pioneering days.



Oil on canvas painting by Percy Carpenter in 1856 showing Telok Ayer Bay from Mount Wallich. Thian Hock Keng is on the left, Al-Abrar Mosque beside it on the right and original Lau Pa Sat in the middle. Reclamation works which started in 1880 filled the Telok Ayer Bay and moved the shoreline several kilometres south of Thian Hock Keng. Soil from Mount Wallich was used to fill the bay.

(So, now I realised all the buildings south of Telok Ayer Street are on reclaimed land 😄 )



Telok Ayer Street in this early 1900 photo once filled with human powered rickshaws still fronts Thian Hock Keng.

In 1907, Qing Emperor Guangxu 光緒帝 gifted a calligraphy scroll inscribed 波靖南溟 "Waves be calm over the South Seas". The original scroll is with the National Heritage Board for safekeeping. A commemorative plaque hangs high up in the main sanctuary.

The scroll was in appreciation of the contributions of Nanyang Chinese towards the Celestial Kingdom. It also staked the Qing Dynasty's (in its death throes competing with Chinese Republicans and British colonialists) claim on the emigres' allegiance.

(To put the dates in perspective, Qing Dynasty, the last Chinese imperial empire collapsed in 1912 and Sun Yet Sen declared the Republic of China.)




A pair of stone tablets at the entrance of Thian Hock Keng erected in 1850 commemorate the completion of the temple "in the 20th year of the reign of Emperor Daoguang" i.e. 1840. The names of the contributors are also inscribed on the tablet. The biggest contribution of Spanish Dollars 3,074 came from Tan Tock Seng. The smallest contribution recorded on the tablet was Spanish Dollars 24 (not a small sum in those days).



Sturdy wrought iron gates from Glasgow installed during renovations in 1906 still stand guard at the temple entrance.



There are low wood and stone barriers at the front entrances. I often heard it said that the barriers were installed to keep water out as Thian Hock Keng was located at the water's edge. I also heard another theory that the low barriers were to make anyone who enters the temple head down, look down and bend slightly as they come in (as a mark of respect). I am more inclined to the second theory as I've seen the same low barriers in temples in China, many kilometres away from water and on hill tops.

If you have any questions about Thian Hock Keng, please leave your questions in the comments. I will do my best to find the answer (seeking help from experts where necessary).

Mazu, the main deity of Thian Hock Keng was Hokkien shaman Lin Mo Niang 林默娘 who lived from 960 - 987 A.D. during the Song dynasty. Her gift in predicting weather and storms saved many seafarers' lives. After her death, she was deified as the Chinese sea goddess Mazu. Hokkien communities in China, Taiwan, Malaysia, Indonesia, Singapore etc worship Mazu - thanking her and seeking her blessings for safe travels.



Other Chinese deities including Guan Yin 觀音 (Goddess of Mercy) and Cheng Huang Ye 城隍爺 (City God) are in the pantheon of 12 deities at Thian Hock Keng. Mazu, the main deity 主神 is in the main sanctuary in the centre of the temple and the other deities in smaller shrines in a constellation ringing the centre court.



Guan Yin 觀音 (Goddess of Mercy). Deity widely venerated in Chinese communities worldwide for her compassion.



City God 城隍爺. City God protects the city's defences (walls and moats in ancient China) and blesses the city's people with peace and prosperity.



The Sacred Governor Kai Zhang 開漳聖王. Tang Dynasty general who lived from 657 to 711. He pacified Fujian on behalf of the Tang Emperor. He ruled territories under his charge benevolently, brought about prosperity and defended it against rebels. He was killed in battle in 711, age 54.



Temple Protection Bodhisattva 伽蓝菩萨.



Confucius 孔子. Scholar, philosopher, teacher who lived 551 - 479 B.C. during the Autumn and Spring period of ancient China. Confucian ethics still influences Chinese worldview. Many devotees come to the shrine to seek Confucius' blessing for examinations.




In 1849, the Chung Wen Pagoda dedicated to the written word, literature, poetry and learning was added outside the main temple (to its southwest).



The Chong Hock Pavilion (an annex to the main temple) was built in 1913 and in 1915 housed the Chong Hock Girls' School. Chong Hock was Singapore's first girls school and it used Hokkien as the medium of instruction.



Today, Chong Hock Pavilion renamed Chong Wen Ge houses a Peranakan cafe, decorative tile shop and music box museum. Chong Hock Girl's School is today Chongfu School for boys and girls, and moved to Yishun Town (in Singapore's  north).



From the beginning, the Mazu shrine had been the focal point of the Hokkien community in Singapore. The Singapore Hokkien Clan Association 福建会馆 was founded within Thian Hock Keng temple in 1849.



The Association moved just across Telok Ayer street in 1955. Today, the Association's modern glass and steel tower completed in 2003, stands directly opposite the temple.

If you have any questions about Thian Hock Keng, please leave your questions in the comments. I will do my best to find the answer (seeking help from experts where necessary).

Thian Hock Keng was gazetted a Singapore national monument in 1973. Restoration works began in 1998. In 2001, Thian Hock Keng won an honourable mention in the 2001 UNESCO Asia-Pacific Heritage Awards.




Thian Hock Keng was the first stop of grateful immigrants from Fujian, China thanking Mazu for safe arrival. THK was also the last stop to seek Mazu's blessings before embarking on outbound journeys. Today's worshippers include any believer (not only Hokkiens) who seek a variety of blessings ranging from peace and safety to good health.



From the beginning, Thian Hock Keng welcomes visits by all faiths and tourists. Entrance is free of charge. Just no photo taking inside the main sanctuary out of respect for devotees' privacy.



Don't worry, these door gods 門神 welcome you and ward off evil.



Every element and small detail in Thian Hock Keng has its own fascinating story. Heritage enthusiasts can spend days here uncovering the secrets of Singapore's oldest Chinese temple.



Thian Hock Keng 天福宫

Address: 158 Telok Ayer St, Singapore 068613
GPS: 1°16'51.5"N 103°50'51.9"E 🌐 1.280978, 103.847762
Nearest MRT: Telok Ayer (distance 150 metres)
Waze: Thian Hock Keng
Parking: Limited street side parking. Best to use public transport
Tel: +65 6423 4616
Fax:  +65 6423 4626
Hours: 7.30am – 5.30pm

If you have any questions about Thian Hock Keng, please leave your questions in the comments. I will do my best to find the answer (seeking help from experts where necessary).

Episode 1 of Taiwanese TV series on the legend of Mazu