Tony Johor Kaki Travels for Food · Heritage · Culture · History

Adventurous Foodie Geographer's Diary with 70 million+ reads 📧 johorkaki@gmail.com

Nasi Lemak Antarabangsa & Heritage Food Walk in Kampung Bahru Kuala Lumpur Malaysia

Kampung-Bahru-Kuala-Lumpur-Malaysia

I had a great evening at Kuala Lumpur's rustic Kampung Baru during my visit to KL for the Mega Fam programme 2015 hosted by Tourism Malaysia.

We were accompanied by Ms Jane Rai who is the Vice Chairman of KL Tour Guides Association. Jane is extremely knowledgeable about Kuala Lumpur and it's history. She has interesting snippets for every place in KL.

Food Blogger at Malaysia International Shoe Festival MISF 2015

I was so excited to be invited as a media member to the opening ceremony of the 6th Malaysia International Shoe Festival (MSIF 2015) on 13 Mar 2015. Attending the shoe show was one of the many interesting activities under the Mega Fam programme hosted by Malaysia Tourism.

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The theme of MSIF 2015 is "Two Legends, One Show" to honour Prof Datuk DR Jimmy Choo OBE and Datuk Zang Toi, two world class shoe designers from Malaysia.

The Pecking Order Singapore North Canal Road and The Entertainer App 2015

The Pecking Order is a small watering hole located in a pre-war corner shop lot smack in the middle of Singapore's central business district, in the shadow of looming glass towers.

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I was invited to this tasting but wasn't expecting much from such bistro/ cafe/ bars catering to sleep deprived, overworked financial types with deep pockets but no time or mood to smell aromas or taste flavours. I expected the food to be overpriced and of average quality.

I was wrong.


I was pleasantly surprised with the quality of food, reasonable pricing and enthusiastic service; coming away from the tasting session feeling good and satisfied ;-D


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Inside The Pecking Order, the oblong shaped interior is cosy and suitably hip without overdoing it. The lights were warm, subdued and calming - exactly what is needed after a frenzied day and night chasing targets and numbers.

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The decor is an eclectic mix of vintage and contemporary. A bit psychedelic, slightly dazzling, it blends in with the buzz of the vibrant Boat Quay area outside.

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If you prefer al fresco dining and someplace more toned down away from the razzle dazzle, the side lane beside The Pecking Order is quite cosy actually.


It's a nice hideaway.


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The staff at The Pecking Order were all warm, attentive and enthusiastic. Our used plates were changed promptly. We were asked smilingly, politely and unobtrusively at suitable intervals, if we needed anything more. The arrangements for the tasting session were also meticulous.

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The bar at the front is well stocked and the enthusiastic mixologist serves up some delightful cocktails.

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I had a couple of this gin and grape (SGD20 nett). Yes, two ;-D

The Pecking Order serves salads, sandwiches and pastas during lunch.

Here's what we had at dinner ;-D

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Burnt aubergine mash (eggplant) with spicy piment d'espelette and fried garlic (SGD10 nett).

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Roasted potatoes with blue cheese, black truffle and chives (SGD12 nett).

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Mussels escabeche with sour sweet shaved funnels and garlic toasts (SGD12 nett).

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Crispy oyster and prawn fritters with avocado creme (SGD12 nett).

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Croquette shaped salt cod fritter with anchovy aioli sauce (SGD10 nett).

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Pressed sandwich of sea urchin and dry cured coppa ham (SGD18 nett).

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Sea tiger prawns with crustacean butter and seaweed sauce (SGD16).

The good size prawns (about the size of my forefinger) were de-veined and pan seared in butter. I was able to taste the ocean freshness and crustacean flavours with buttery savouriness in the firm flesh. 

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Braised lamb ribs on a bed of carrot mash and dressed with gremolata (SGD24 nett).

I like the gentle gaminess and the creaminess when I chewed on the fat and meat of the moist tender lamb. The sweet fine carrot mash was good too.

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Sliced grilled Kurobuta pork jowl with honey and soy sauce, and braised red cabbage side (SGD22 nett).

Sweet porcine flavour with subtle smokiness from the slight char outside. A savoury sweet crowd favourite. A little bit more moist would make this perfect for me.

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Tender, slightly chewy, beefy wagyu hanger steak with red pepper "chimmichurri" and portobello mushroom sauce (SGD28 nett).

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Molten chocolate and salted egg custard lava cake with vanilla ice cream (SGD12 nett).

Quite an adventurous creation but I was too full by this time to appreciate the unique blend of chocolaty savoury sweetness. I suspect that I will enjoy this more with coffee or tea during mid-day or mid-afternoon breaks.

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The Pecking Order is one of 800+ businesses that honour The Entertainer App for "buy one get one free" deals.

Please note that this is an invited tasting.

Restaurant name: The Pecking Order Cafe Bar
Address: 13 North Canal Road #01-01, Singapore
Maphttp://bit.ly/PeckingOrderBar
Hours: Mon to Fri 8:00am - 12 midnight (cafe & bar) | Sat 10:00am to 8:00pm (cafe only) | Closed on Sun

Non Halal


Date visited: 24 Mar 2015


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Johor Bahru Nasi Ambang

Originally from Java, Indonesia, Nasi Ambang (pronounced um-bng) is very popular in Johor (and Singapore). I love nasi ambang because I love it's many colours, textures, flavours and aromas, all in one dish.

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Nasi ambang is served at kenduris (traditional village festive gatherings), restaurants and also road side stalls. I love them all ;-D

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The composition of nasi ambang vary from restaurant to restaurant, stall to stall. I enjoy trying nasi ambang from eatery to eatery as I am thrilled by the surprising twists that I might find inside the dish.

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I love eating nasi ambang from road side stalls which sells the dish in little conical banana leaf packets. (Back in old Java, husbands bring home leftovers from kenduris in little packets to prove to their wives that they were indeed at a village gathering, and not somewhere else ;-p ).

I have tasted only a few street nasi ambang in Johor Bahru, so far. I am searching for more as there are many that I do not know about yet. If you know good nasi ambang stalls, please let me know by leaving a comment ;-D

Here are some of the best in JB that I've tried so far. If you are looking for nasi ambang in JB, you can give these a try ;-D

Zai Catering

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Nasi ambang from Zai Catering, a little stall at the MasLee wet market in Taman Setia Indah.

White rice, fried yellow noodles, rendang chicken, lightly stir fried vegetables, fried grated coconut, salted fish, fried tempe, a splash of coconut rich, creamy curry all wrapped in fragrant fresh banana leaf.

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Nothing fancy.

But, it's my little heaven wrapped in a RM4 taste grenade.

Restaurant name: Zai Catering (click for more details)

Address: Jalan Setia 3/7, Taman Setia Indah, Johor Bahru, Malaysia (beside the MasLee market) 
Map: http://bit.ly/ZaiCatering 
Hours: 5:00am to 5:00pm (closed on Monday)

Nasi Ambang Mak Ana

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Mak Ana's nasi ambang has everything from curry chicken, fried beef liver, fried vegetables, noodles, potato cutlet, fried shredded coconut, salted fish, curry gravy and sambal chili. Mak Ana's nasi ambang is the most loaded street side one that I know in JB, at the moment.

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I like Mak Ana's rendang chicken and her fresh pulpy spicy sambal chili.

Restaurant name: Nasi Ambang Mak Ana - street side stall (click for details)
Address: Along Jalan Padi Ria (beside the Petronas station), Bandar Baru Uda, Johor Bahru, Malaysia 
Map: http://bit.ly/MakAnaNasi 
Hours: 11:30am to sold out (usually by 1:30pm) Closed on Saturday

A.B. Rahmat Stall

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A.B. Rahmat stall at Sri Tebrau market and food centre sells nasi ambang only on Weds lunch. There is always a long queue on Weds ;-D  The nasi ambang here has all the usual components but doesn't have fried noodles.

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Unlike the usual hard and very salty fish (which I don't quite enjoy), A.B. Rahmat serves this sweet savoury crispy fish. This small fried fish is what keeps me and many fans coming back to A.B. Rahmat.

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A.B. Rahmat's sambal chili is a balanced blend of sweet, savoury and spicy. Hot enough but not too overwhelming.

Restaurant name:  A. B. Rahmat Stall (click for more details)

Address: Taman Sri Tebrau Hawker Centre, Jalan Keris, Taman Sri Tebrau, Johor Bahru  
Map: http://goo.gl/maps/E0X3Q  
GPS: 1.487056,103.768063  
Hours: 11:00am to 2:00pm (nasi ambang on Weds only)

Cendol House

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Cendol House's nasi ambang comes pre-packed in little cones of banana leaf and brown paper. Everything is inside this little volcano.

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Packed full of flavour and aroma. Very tasty though a tad on the greasy side.

I like pre-packed banana leaf nasi ambang as somehow the flavours blend and fuse together in magical ways that erupt when we unwrap the packet.

Restaurant name: Cendol House (click for more details)
Address: Along Jalan Rahmat near the junction of Jalan Merdeka and Jalan Berlian 
Map: http://goo.gl/maps/cKPPp 
GPS: 1.510579,103.753273 
Hours: 11:00am to 7:00pm (Closed on Monday)

Mat Corner (stall in Selera Masuri)

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Mat Corner is one of the best known nasi ambang stalls in JB. It has all the usual components of fried chicken, tempe, salted fish, fried vegetables and coconut shreds. However, it does not have that signature clump of fried noodles of nasi ambang. The fried chicken also tend to be a bit dry and stiff.

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The spicy splash of curry gravy and sambal chili are Mat Corner's main selling points. The sambal chili has a sharp sting and distinct lemon grass aroma. The curry gravy is spicy, sweet and nutty.

Restaurant name: Mat Corner - stall in Selera Masuri (click for more details)
Address: Off Jalan Padi Mahsuri (opposite SMK Bandar Baru Uda), Bandar Baru Uda 
Map: http://g.co/maps/evjbm 
GPS: 1.494920,103.718823 
Hours: 11:30am to 3:00pm

There you have it; these are just some of the best street nasi ambang in Johor Bahru.

Please give me tips to help me add to and improve this list of nasi ambang in JB ;-D

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Johor Best Fish Ball Noodles at Lai Kee in Tun Aminah JB 来记西刀鱼圆(皇后花园)

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Lai Kee fish ball noodles 来记西刀鱼圆 is a household name in Johor Bahru, especially in Taman Ungku Tun Aminah 皇后花园 where the shop is located since 1987.

Lai Kee has a strong following of loyal locals, many of whom are third generation fans who grew up eating Lai Kee fish balls. So, the shop is always busy, filled with young and old customers from open till close.

Fatty Weng Singapore Bukit Batok 肥仔荣食摊

This is an old post that needs updating. I have not been here since writing this post in 2015. Please share any new information you have in the comments. Thank you.


Fatty Weng has been my long time favourite haunt when I was working and living near Bukit Batok. The two things I always went for were Fatty Weng's fish soup and orh luak (oyster omelet) together.

It's been more than 5 years since I Iast ate at Fatty Weng's.

So, I approached the kopitiam stall today with a bit of nostalgia and some trepidation. Is Fatty Weng stall still there? Is it still the same? Would I still love it as much as before?

I am so glad nothing much has changed at Fatty Weng's.

Will Air Conditioning Singapore Hawker Centres Freeze Out our Food Heritage?

Following the Singapore government announcement that it is planning to build 10 more public hawker centres by 2027, there were suggestions that these new public centres should be air conditioned.

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Air conditioning makes hawker centres more comfortable for customers as Singapore weather is perpetually humid and hot. It is also suggested that air conditioning would encourage more youth to take up the mettle to be our next generation hawkers.

This, it is argued, would save Singapore's treasured traditional street food culture which is facing challenges of survival in the face of rapid modernity.

My concern with air conditioning our public hawker centres is that it may have exactly the opposite effect of the good intentions.

Air conditioning will invariably increase the operational and maintenance cost of running a public hawker centre.

Operational costs of stalls will increase as a direct consequence. 

It is unlikely that the government will subsidise the cost of air conditioning. Personally, I also don't think it should.

It will be difficult for independent hawkers to afford higher rental and operational costs, without passing it on to the customers. It will be very challenging to break even, given the ceiling price that the general public is willing or able to pay for staple hawker food.

Public hawker centre food is the baseline meal for many workers (who cannot eat at home during work). Many do not have the financial means to opt for an air conditioned place for their daily working meal; so, affordable public hawker centre food is a godsend for workers. Air conditioning public hawker centres takes away that affordable choice from such workers to settle their daily basic necessity.

One possible unintended outcome is the new air conditioned public hawker centres will be unable to get enough independent hawkers to rent the stalls or operate it profitably for long.

In this situation, a likely scenario is large private corporations will step in to take over these public built hawker stalls. These private corporations have the financial, logistical and managerial resources to run the stalls profitably.

To be profitable, the large corporations rely on economies of scale.

As much as possible, the food and ingredients will be prepared en masse in central kitchens. These will merely be assembled and served at the points of sale i.e. the stalls at the air conditioned hawker centre.

They look like yong tau foo, laksa or fish ball noodles but they are really not the same.

They are closer to food from a caterer than hawker food as we know it.

I am ignorant about building and architecture, but perhaps we can look deeper at ways to make use of natural ventilation and leafy shades to cool our hawker centres?

(ok, this is a bit esoteric and off topic but it will help lower our carbon emissions too. Maybe, the architectural faculties of our universities might want to consider taking up the challenge?)

We want to preserve our street food heritage. We want to encourage our youth to take up the mettle of taking our heritage food into the future. We want to keep up with the times and modern realities.

We agree on that.

Absolutely.

It's just that air conditioning our public hawker centres is probably not one of the answers.

I fear that it might leave our heritage food in the cold instead of saving it.

(Preserving our food heritage is a want, not a need. We can survive very well on generic food but we would be soulless, that's all. How far will we go to save our culinary soul? Saving that discussion for another day ;-p )

Date: 22 Mar 2015

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Singapore Signature Food Challenge SSFC 2015 at ITE College West

The Singapore Signature Food Challenge aims to create greater awareness among our youth of Singapore's hawker food and to help preserve our culinary heritage. The inaugural SSFC 2015 was organised by ITE West, curated by Makansutra, and sponsored by Unilever Food Solutions and Lau Choy Seng Pte Ltd.

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Fifteen out of 37 youth teams from ITE, the polytechnics and SHATEC made it to the Grand Final held at ITE College West's beautiful campus in Choa Chu Kang on 21 Mar 2015.

The theme of the Grand Final is "Traditional Modernity".

At the event, the competing teams were required to cook a traditional, and a modern version of:
  1. Carrot cake
  2. Salted egg yolk crab
  3. Burbur cha cha.
Two teams of judges comprising renowned chefs, food industry experts and food bloggers were led by KF Seetoh and Chef Edmund Toh respectively.

The teams' prepared dishes were scored on taste and presentation. In addition, the traditional version is judged on it's authenticity and the modern interpretation on it's creativity. The teams were also judged on their kitchen hygiene and safety.

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I got a peek at the contestants in action ;-D

Their concentration was intense. The finalists had been practising hard for weeks for this big day.

Six dishes in 3 hours.

Very stressful ;-p

Here's some examples of the contestants' creations.

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Black and white fried carrot cake as we know it.

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Fried carrot cake of the new generation.

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Traditional salted egg yolk crab.

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A modern interpretation of a favourite classic.

Glazed shelled crab claw, garnished with spiced burnt butter crumbs, dressed with smoked paprika mayonnaise with crab brendade, glazed pumpkin, blanched bak choy greens, and salted egg espuma whip.

Applause.

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Burbur cha cha according to grandma's recipe.



Burbur cha cha?!

Yes, we can't even imagine the possibilities until we free our minds ;-D

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Judges of the traditional segment in action:
  1. KF Seetoh
  2. Chef Eric Teo
  3. Chef Malcolm Lee
  4. Catherine (Camemberu blog)

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Judges for the modern interpretations:
  1. Chef Edmund Toh
  2. Chef Yen Koh
  3. Mr Kwan Lau
  4. Tony Johor Kaki
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Ms Low Yen Ling, Mayor of South West District and Parl. Sec. Min. of Culture, Community and Youth highlighted that our food culture is part of our identity as Singaporeans. She was impressed with the contestants' skill in capturing the essence of traditional Singapore food and in taking it into the future.

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Ms Low is very supportive and encouraging of our next generation of F & B professionals.

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KF Seetoh, the chief judge, summed up the judges' impressions of the food. The judges were full of praise for the contestants' creations describing the food as "trend setting", "futuristic" and "imaginative". KF Seetoh encouraged the contestants to persevere in their learning journey as the future possibilities of street food is boundless and expanding.

Now, for the much anticipated results.

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It was a very tight race.

The judges had a very hard time deciding among all the excellent creations. The top teams that emerged:

Third runner up - Team Asian Persuasion (ITE)
Second runner up - Team KL (Temasek Polytechnic)
First runner up - Team MFL (ITE)

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After much deliberation among the judges, the winner's trophy was awarded to Team DJ from Temasek Polytechnic.

Congratulations to all finalists and winners!

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Judging by the creations today, I feel the future of Singapore signature food is in good hands.

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Let's put our hands together behind the plough with our young food culture warriors to keep the flame of our culinary heritage burning brightly in the years to come.

May I humbly wish all our young chefs (humbly because I am humbled by your dedication), all the best as you follow your passion.

Date: 21 Mar 2015

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