Tony Johor Kaki Travels for Food · Heritage · Culture · History

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Banh Nam Hue. Steamed Flat Rice Dumpling of Vietnam's Imperial Capital

Banh-Nam-Hue-Flat-Rice-Dumpling

In Vietnam, you will taste many forms of banh which is usually translated as cake or bread. The most well known banh in the world is banh mi which is like a form of Vietnamese bread roll with fillings. In the ancient imperial city of Hue, they have their own types of banh. The most famous being banh khoai which I like. But, it was banh nam which I ended up eating the most because it is more widely available.


Banh-Nam-Hue-Flat-Rice-Dumpling

I first tasted banh nam at a restaurant known as Bà Đỏ in Hue. It serves all kinds of banh like banh beo, banh khoai, banh ram it, banh bot loc, and of course, banh nam. (But no banh mi 😄. This is Hue, banh mi isn't as ubiquitous here as say Ho Chi Minh City.)




We came to Bà Đỏ on a food tour of Hue on cyclo (trishaw) which is one of the best ways to get a quick overview of street cuisine of the old imperial city.

Banh-Nam-Hue-Flat-Rice-Dumpling

Though banh nam look relatively simple, I fell in love with its texture, taste and smell.

Banh nam is found all over Vietnam but is recognised as a dish originally from Hue. Every first and fifteenth day of the lunar month, Hue people use banh nam as offerings when worshipping their ancestors and deities.

Banh-Nam-Hue-Flat-Rice-Dumpling

Inside the leaf envelope is a soft tongue of steamed rice paste which tastes of rice sweetness infused with subtle banana leaf aroma. The minced pork and dried shrimp topping add a layer of savoury sweetness. Banh nam is eaten with a splash of fish sauce and bits of cut chili which add another layer of savouriness and a bit of sharp spicy kick.

Banh-Nam-Hue-Flat-Rice-Dumpling

We were staying in Imperial Hotel and Alba Hotel in Hue. Both hotels have banh nam on their breakfast buffet spread. I helped myself to many rounds of banh nam 😄

Alba Hotel kindly let us observe their kitchen making banh nam for breakfast.

Banh-Nam-Hue-Flat-Rice-Dumpling

First beat the rice flour and water into a paste.

(Those are banana leafs on the left. Yeah, they look a bit different from what we are familiar with in Singapore and Malaysia, but our hosts assured us that they are banana leafs.)

Banh-Nam-Hue-Flat-Rice-Dumpling

Slather a spoonful of rice paste onto a banana leaf. Making banh nam does not need any complicated equipment at all.

Banh-Nam-Hue-Flat-Rice-Dumpling

A scoop of sautéed seasoned minced pork and dried shrimp is laid on top of the rice paste.

Banh-Nam-Hue-Flat-Rice-Dumpling

Fold the leaf with the rice and toppings inside like a green envelope.

Banh-Nam-Hue-Flat-Rice-Dumpling

The green envelopes are placed on a bamboo tray to cook by steaming.

Banh-Nam-Hue-Flat-Rice-Dumpling

Tah dah!! 😋

Somehow reminds me of otak otak but, of course, they are different things altogether.

Banh-Nam-Hue-Flat-Rice-Dumpling

Unwrap the little present. If you eat it hot, a puff of aromatic steam rises as you unbundle the green envelope. Oh.... the comforting sweet smell of rice and banana leaf. (If you are from Singapore or Malaysia, you know what I mean.) Dash in some savoury fish sauce and cut chili pepper.

It's so addictive 😋

Banh-Nam-Hue-Flat-Rice-Dumpling

I like to eat my banh nam rolled up like a chee cheong fun 😄

So smooth, so light, so flavourful. The soft rice custard slips down the throat as easily as water. Very, very easy to overindulge.

Want to know Vietnam. Start in Hue. The imperial and culinary capital of Vietnam.

Date: 26 Mar 2020

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