On our way from Paro town to Haa town in the Haa Valley on a cold November day, we stopped a while at Chele La for its splendid mountain vista and a warm cup of butter tea at the Himalayan kingdom's highest motorable mountain pass.
At 3988 metres, Chelela is the highest motorable point in Bhutan.
So Chelela is a popular, almost obligatory check-in point for tourists who come in coaches, 4-wheel drives, mountain bikes and even pedal bicycles for adventurous thrill seekers.
Chelela is the natural stop on the winding Bondey - Haa Highway between Paro and Haa Valleys - the mountain pass marks the boundary between Paro and Haa districts. 35 km from Paro town, 26 km from Haa town.
Passing a yak near Chelela. It is a common sight especially in the winter when nomadic herders bring their animals to warmer lower altitudes.
Most people do three things when they are at Chelela. Give yourselves about an hour here, if you are coming.
One
From the tiny car park, take a few steps up to the lookout point at the top of the adjacent knoll.
View of the nearby Jangchub Chorten (stupa) consecrated in August 2024.
Jangchub Chorten honours the birth of Gyalsey Ugyen Wangchuck (born March 2020), second son of reigning Druk Gyalpo Jigme Khesar Namgyel Wangchuck and Gyaltsuen Jetsun Pema.
View of Haa valley and Himalayan mountain range beyond.
Haa town in the Haa Valley.
Mount Chomolhari (also Jomolhari) 7316 metres tall, one of Bhutan's highest peaks.
Jomolhari is one of Bhutan's holiest mountains. It is the home of the Five Sisters of Long Life - female protector goddesses (Jomo) of Bhutan (Tibet and Nepal), who are bound under oath by Guru Rinpoche (Padmasambhava) to protect Buddhism.
Two
Most people make a bee line for the mobile coffee & tea shop next to the car park.
The shop and kitchen are at the back of the truck.
The menu.
Heading the list is momo (dumplings) - there will always be momo in Bhutan and across the Himalayas.
Steamy hot beverages.
Everyone huddled around the wood fired stove. It's triple whammy cold at Chelela in November - it's winter time, the altitude is high, and cold winds sweep from the Himalayas.
Cooking, boiling and keeping everyone warm here is not easy.
Rice porridge with cubes of cheese.
Bhutanese like a bit of crisps and crunch in their tea or porridge. The crisps and crunch can be from corn, puffed rice, and even instant noodles (like in this case).
A cup of hot tea, coffee, porridge or noodle is a winner in the cold here.
Three
Answer nature's call.
Toilet is a wooden shack, 20 - 30 paces from the mobile "cafe".
Use of toilet costs Nu10 or 11 cents USD.
A prayer wheel and a reminder to drive safe (which is applicable everywhere in today's distracted driving world). Road conditions in Bhutan are relatively challenging due to terrain and weather. Fortunately, standard of safety consciousness, law compliance and driving etiquette in Bhutan is high.
Chelela
Written by Tony Boey on 12 Dec 2025
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