Tony Johor Kaki Travels for Food · Heritage · Culture · History

Adventurous Culinary Traveler's Blog with 65 million+ reads 📧 johorkaki@gmail.com

Haikou Thien Hou Mazu Temple 海口天后宮


There are two Thien Hou temples in Haikou which are side by side each other at 89 Zhong Shan Lu, Longhua District, Haikou. One is a bigger temple complex while the other is a shrine (in a small former storehouse right next to it).

The small Haikou Thien Hou Temple is located in an alleyway at Zhongshan street in the old town Qilou 騎樓老街 area of Haikou.

The alleyway is known as Zhongshan Hengxiang or Zhongshan side lane.

The actual address is Zhongshan Hengxiang 1-1.

The small Thien Hou Temple is at the deep, far end of the alleyway.

This Thien Hou Temple is looked after by a 70 year old caretaker and his 90 year old mother.

The sanctuary is small but lovingly tended and well kept.

The Thien Hou or Mazu deity at the altar.

Despite its somewhat obscure location, devotees both from Haikou and out of town come to seek Thien Hou's blessings here.

In this photo, on the left of the alleyway is a large Qilou building which houses the original, bigger Thien Hou Temple building.

Zhongshan street right in front of the Thien Hou Temple was previously the waterfront. Today, the waterfront has been reclaimed from the sea.

A century ago, immigrants leaving Haikou would make a last call at Thien Hou Temple to seek Mazu's mercies for the often treacherous sea journey to Nanyang (Southeast Asia). It was also the place families waved good bye to their loved ones as they go faraway into the unknown, not knowing when or if they were ever coming home.

Thian_Hock_Keng_Singapore

Once the immigrants reached their destination, the first task was to visit a local Thien Hou temple to thank Mazu for journey mercies granted. In Singapore, that would be Thian Hock Keng Temple at Telok Ayer street. Like Zhongshan street, Telok Ayer street used to be the seafront of Singapore and was also later filled in by land reclamation.


More on Singapore Thian Hock Keng temple 👈 click


The original Thien Hou Temple building in Haikou was built during the Mongolian Yuan dynasty over 700 years ago. It was expanded through the centuries during the Ming and Qing dynasties but fell into disrepair. 

The large temple was restored in 2015 and reopened as a cultural centre which houses a collection of deities such as the God of Fortune and others as well as Thien Hou / Mazu.

The cultural centre is well visited mainly by tourists. No photography is allowed inside the main sanctuary (so I have no pictures of it).

Haikou_Thien_Hou_Mazu_Temple_海口天后宮

Mazu 媽祖 was Lin Mo 林默 born in Putian county, Fujian in 960. She had the power to calm seas and winds thus she was the protector of seafarers, sailors, fishermen. 


When Lin Mo died in 987, she was deified and worshiped as Mazu or Thien Hou 天后. 


Mazu worship is prevalent along China's south coast from Fujian to Guangdong, to Hainan and Taiwan. Immigrants from south China also brought Mazu worship across the world.


When you are in Haikou, you may wish to visit both Thien Hou temples here which are side by side. Remember especially the smaller temple inside the alleyway as some tourists missed it because it is tucked away inconspicuously.



Written by Tony Boey on 24 May 2023

No comments:

Post a Comment

All comments submitted with genuine identities are published