We dropped by briefly at Luocheng Ancient City 罗城古镇 on our way from Jiayang steam train station to Emeishan City in Leshan, Sichuan. Luocheng city is a late Ming era town built in 1628. Coming here was like walking unsuspectingly into a time machine - a 400 year time warp.
Seen from above, the outline of Luocheng town centre looked like a boat. UNESCO referred to it as "Oriental Noah's Ark".
According to legend, a passing scholar stopped by at Luocheng for tea. The observant scholar noticed that locals were careful to drink their tea to the very last drop. When he asked locals why they did so, he was told that Luocheng suffered from frequent droughts.
Pondering upon Luocheng's problem, the scholar offered this sage advice:
"若要不缺水, 罗城修成舟
舟在水中行, 有舟必有水"
"If you wish not to lack water, rebuild Luocheng as a boat
Where there are boats, there will be water."
The townsfolk were so impressed that they persuaded the scholar to stay and direct the reconstruction of Luocheng. So, together, the townsfolk rebuilt the town in the shape of a ship.
Epilogue: The reconstruction didn't resolve Luocheng's water problem. That was solved when townsfolk dammed a nearby river to create a reservoir to collect and supply water to Luocheng. Still, that makes a nice story about the origins of the ship shaped town.
At street level, the small town consists of a Ming era opera stage known as "Eternity stage" at one end. The "ship shaped" road, widest here at the western end, converges at the eastern end which looked like the bow of a boat.
Some 200 metres up on the eastern end is Linggan Temple built in 1879 during the Qing Dynasty. Locals pray at Linggan Temple for Luocheng to be blessed with rain.
Lining both sides of the short stretch of road which locals call 船形街 "ship shaped street" are fully packed tea shops, eateries, mahjong and playing card parlours.
The shops were busy, but most of the townsfolk here prefer to sit outside along the wide breezy verandas even though outside temperature was about 6-8℃.
Since time immemorial, many seniors like to come to Luocheng Ancient City for card games, mahjong, and tea with peers - kakis lah.
Being at Luocheng Ancient City keeps the seniors engaged and connected with the community as townsfolk had done for centuries.
Experts have said enjoying card games and mahjong keep the mind alert.
"How old are you, little
"I am three years old."
At the Linggan Temple end of the street, there's a friendly sugar candy man. 糖画 Sugar painting was invented during the Ming dynasty and it is well developed in Sichuan.
Candy man has a group of fans who watch enthralled by his artistry.
Candy man melts sugar in a small pot over charcoal fire. He then skilfully ladles it onto a white marble worktop.
With just a ladle, simple tools, and seemingly easy strokes of the hand, candy man daftly makes intricate designs of horses, deer, rabbits, flowers etc with caramelised sugar.
Everyone loves candy art.
The candy is too beautiful to eat 😝
I am glad that Luocheng Ancient City has not changed too much since its Ming dynasty days. So far, it has not suffered the sad fate of many ancient towns in China which are overrun by stalls hawking cheap generic mass produced trinkets as "souvenirs". I hope Luocheng will be spared the fate of commercialisation and remains true and authentic in the years to come.
👉 Worth stopping by, if you are passing by. Even though Luocheng is no architectural marvel nor ancient relic, I found the 400 year old ship shaped town centre's story charming. The authenticity and quaintness of the town today makes a visit worthwhile. For how long more will it stay this way?
Date visited: 25 Feb 2019
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