Peppery Teochew Soups That Inspired Singapore Teochew Bak Kut Teh

Singapore bak kut teh was originally herbal as it was concocted as a tonic for coolies. Around the 1950s, the peppery type of bak kut teh synonymous with Singapore bak kut teh emerged.

By the 1950s and into the 1960s, Singapore was prospering. Workers unlike their forefathers did less hard labour and didn't need medicinal herbs in their bak kut teh. The bosses who became fans of bak kut teh also wanted better cuts of meat and flavours they enjoy.

Ng Ah Sio with President Ma of Taiwan

The peppery bak kut teh answered this call. It was pioneered by 黄美松 and his son 黄亚细 Ng Ah Sio who popularised the dish to the extent that it became synonymous with Singapore bak kut teh.

So, we know the rationale and the timing of the shift from herbal to peppery bak kut teh in Singapore. But, what dish inspired the Teochews to create a bak kut teh with only pork ribs, Sarawak pepper and garlic? It's a rather drastic shift from herbal bak kut teh.

Unfortunately, there is no record of what dish was this "mother" of peppery bak kut teh.

But, we can surmise that it has to be a peppery dish.

Which peppery dish?

We need not look far as Teochews have their own family of peppery soups made with pork maw, offal or duck with salted vegetables and peppercorn. Wouldn't it be natural that pork bones / ribs join this family of peppery Teochew soups too?

潮州鹹菜胡椒豬肚湯 Teochew Salted Vegetable Peppery Pork Maw Soup.

Teochew Salted Vegetable Peppery Pork Maw Soup is made by boiling salted mustard, peppercorn and wolfberry with pork bone and pork maw (stomach).

潮州鹹菜鸭汤 Teochew Salted Vegetable Duck Soup

Teochew Salted Vegetable Duck Soup is made by boiling duck and pork ribs with salted mustard, tomatoes, preserved plum, garlic and peppercorn.

When Teochews started to reduce herbs in their bak kut teh, they have their community's own repertoire of familiar salted vegetable and peppery soups as reference.

潮州肉骨茶 Teochew Bak Kut Teh.

In its most basic form, Teochew bak kut teh is made with just pork ribs, garlic and peppercorn. Some recipes may call for spices and seasoning but the dominant taste will still come from pepper and garlic.

I believe that it is likely that Singapore Teochews were inspired by one of their own peppery dishes than a dish from, say... Malaysia.