When Japan opened to foreign trade in 1859 (after over 220 years of self isolation policy), only three ports were accessible to traders - Nagasaki in the south, Yokohama in central Japan, and Hokadate in the north.
Many Chinese, Russians, and Europeans set up businesses in Motomachi district in Hokadate. Foreign traders left their marks which are still visible and felt today.
When we arrived at Motomachi district in Hokadate city, Hokkaido we were struck immediately by its unique blend of Japanese and European architecture.
There were churches, consulate buildings, residences, etc.
The ropeway car station at foot of Mount Motomachi which takes visitors to the summit.
From here, we can ride the cable car to a panoramic view of Hokadate city.
Wandering around the foothills of Motomachi, we stumbled upon Marutamagoya まるたま小屋, a cafe just steps away from the ropeway car station.
Stepping inside, I like this place already.
It has that quaint, charming, rustic, homely feel that drops my blood pressure and heart rate instantly. Smell of fresh bakes make me happy. It's Marutamagoya Russian Cafe modelled after a "dacha" or small wooden Russian vacation cottage.
The menu and counter on the left, once we stepped into the cafe.
Marutamagoya まるたま小屋 serves Russian and Eastern European cuisine. Japanese chef-owner Kitami Nobuko is a Russian culture enthusiast-extraordinaire. She followed her passion to Russia and Ukraine, and opened Marutamagoya in 2015.
We took a walk around the spaces before we settled down to the food.
So many beautiful spaces, I think regulars all have their own secret place. The atmosphere was calm and serene, ideal for private, me-time or just cooling our heels from walking the hills of Motomachi. I like to hide among books.
There are many cosy, inviting nooks, you get the idea.
My set was known as Crugli's Assorted Delights Set for ￥2145 (SGD17.25).
Borsh - pork bone soup with chunks beetroot, tomato and sour cream.
Stroganoff - a Russian icon of strips of beef and mushroom sautéed with mustard and sour cream sauce.
Marutamagoya is best known for their Pirozhki, freshly baked yeast leaven bun filled with minced meat, and stewed cabbage. It is a staple and popular street food in Russia, Ukraine and Eastern Europe.
I know nothing about Russian cuisine and haven't had the chance to visit Russia yet. So, all I can say is I enjoyed the soft, airy crust and generous savoury sweet meat and cabbage filling.
Russians visitors have told owner Kitami Nobuko that her Pirozhki is better than those in their hometown 😄
I want to try the other Pirozhki with different fillings, if I have the chance to come back to Motomachi again. Marutamagoya has a signature venison and Ezo-mushroom Pirozhki which I really want to try - eat one for me when you are here 😄
Walnut-shaped sweets
Crmbly buttery biscuit with a sweet caramel filling.
Calpis soda - healthful probiotic, sourish drink of water, milk and lactic acid (fermented).
After our lunch, I continued looking around the house, drawn to the interesting knick knacks scattered at every corner.
There's so much love and passion in everything in this little house.
Couldn't resist requesting for a wefie with owner Kitami Nobuko.
So, if you are taking the ropeway car, just walking around picturesque Motomachi, and need a place to eat or chill out, I recommend Marutamagoya まるたま小屋.
After lunch, we wandered around Motomachi. It's a great place to walk, especially in the summer.
The summer weather was wonderfully sunny at around 25°C. Greens, hills, punctuated with beautiful, well kept, historic buildings.
Looking up towards the peak of Mount Motomachi with the ropeway car station on top.
Many Hokadate public buildings sport Western style architecture.
Looking down towards the harbour at Hokadate Bay.
The old warehouses at the harbour have been repurposed into stylish retail, entertainment and F & B outlets.
Monument of Emperor Meiji’s Visit erected in 1935 (Showa 10) commemorating Emperor Meiji's visit in Hakodate in 1876 (Meiji 9).
Restaurant name: Marutamagoya まるたま小屋 ロシア料理店
Address: 2-3 Motomachi, Hakodate, Hokkaido 040-0054, Japan
Tel: +81138763749
Hours: 11am - 6pm (Weds off)
Written by Tony Boey on 20 Aug 2026
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