Oldest Dim Sum in Johor Bahru · Hock Chiang Hin · Old Downtown Near City Square, JB 福振兴餐室

Hock Chiang Hin 福振兴餐室 | 18, Jalan Siu Nam opposite the PETRON petrol station ⏰ 7:30am to 2:00pm (Closed on Sunday)

My friends from Singapore often asked me, where can they find traditional dim sum within walking distance from City Square in JB.

Recently (2012), I stumbled upon Hock Chiang Hin 福振兴餐室, one of the oldest kopitiams in JB and it serves traditional dim sum 😄 There used to be at least three dim sum shops in JB downtown, but now, Hock Chiang Hin is the only one left.

Hock Chiang Hin had its grand heydays when it was the nearest kopitiam to the JB CIQ - less than a stone's throw away. In those days, many workers and commuters going to Singapore will pick up some paus / baos from Hock Chiang Hin before crossing over to Singapore. After the CIQ shifted, most of these regulars were gone.

But good old Hock Chiang Hin is still here (2024) and the paus are still as good as ever - many still say that they are the  best in JB. After trying them, I begin to appreciate that claim 😄

At Hock Chiang Hin, all the dim sum and paus are freshly made right here in the traditional way at the kopitiam everyday.

Hock Chiang Hin is the only such kopitiam in downtown JB, so if you want freshly made dim sum and paus, this is it.



The menu and price list (as at May 2018).

Menu and prices as at Sep 2023.

Don't read Mandarin? Nevermind. Ordering is easy. Just say or point to what catches your fancy 😄

This is Hock Chiang Hin's signature big pau 大包 at RM2 each (in 2018). This costs RM3.60 today (2023).

The snowy skin was light and porous, airy with many "holes". The skin tasted slightly sweet and the texture was soft, bouncy and fluffy.

The filling made with sliced pork was tender, moist and juicy. Well marinated, tasty and quite sweet.

The little brother was equally good - small (pork) pau.

The vegetable pau for herbivores.

The lo mai kai 糯米鸡 was a tight mound of glutinous rice well infused with syrupy sweet and savoury sauce. The large pieces of chicken were well marinated and tender. Made according to traditional tastes and needs, the lo mai kai might be a tad greasy for modern preferences. In those days, workers appreciate an affordable meal that kept their stomachs warm and filled much of the day.

These were the other dim sum that we tried today (2012).

Hock Chiang Hin's dim sum had its roots as affordable food for commuters at the transit stop between JB and Singapore. Its traditional taste tended towards being filling, meaty and relatively plain compared to the dainty contemporary dim sum (especially in more exclusive restaurants) that emphasises flavours. Hock Chiang Hin's dim sum had remained pretty much in the traditional mould of affordable street / comfort food - they are mostly meant to be filling and not mind blowing.

Hock Chiang Hin's dim sum are reasonably priced - starts at RM1 and the most expensive item, their signature big pau, is RM2. (Prices in 2012.)

A dab of this chili sauce makes the dim sum tastier 😄

These are heritage pictures of Hock Chiang Hin (with much thanks to 陈由东, a third generation owner). For the owners, the shop is the centre of everything. All major events and milestones are celebrated at the shop.

Hock Chiang Hin in the 1940s. The gentleman in the middle is the founder.

The wedding of the second generation owners.

Seventies. That signboard in the background is still around, in the kitchen now. Panda 🐼 was a popular party guest 😄

Only one of that old style ornate marble tables is left at the kopitiam. Go take a look at Hock Chiang Hin. It's authentic heritage furniture - not a replica. The same mosaic flooring is still there at the shop today.

The founder is the gentleman on the left and the present owner 陈由东 is the little boy just in front on the left. In the background are the fifteen storey flats demolished to make way for the current CIQ building.

Family portrait in May 2018.



Eating dim sum at Hock Chiang Hin is an opportunity to appreciate our culinary heritage, and its flavours and tastes. It's also a chance to experience one of JB's rare historic shops.

via GIPHY

I will be right back. Many people keep returning as they have been doing so for generations.

Hock Chiang Hin is located in the old Kampung Wong Ah Fook, the old Cantonese enclave of Johor Bahru. Cantonese settlers in Johor Bahru usually put down roots east of Sungai Segget river (while Teochews settled west of the river).  

Wong Ah Fook from Toisan county in Guangdong, China was the contractor who built many of Johor's historic buildings including Istana Besar, Istana Zaharah, Istana Tyersall, etc. Wong Ah Fook also built roads and was responsible for their maintenance.

Sultan Abu Bakar granted 99-year lease land for Kampung Wong Ah Fook for services rendered by Wong Ah Fook. The main road Jalan Wong Ah Fook running parallel to Sungai Segget was also named after him. The streets of Kampung Wong Ah Fook were named after Wong Ah Fook's sons, Siu Koon, Siu Nam, and Siu Chin. During its heyday, the Cantonese enclave was an entertainment hive with many gambling places, hotels, restaurants, Capitol cinema, etc.

This petrol station in front of Hock Chiang Hing used to be a vacant plot where street hawkers set up their stalls. 

What are your memories of this place?

Wong Ah Fook's foster sister Wong Ah Gew married Sultan Abu Bakar in 1855 and became Sultanah Fatimah. The town of Muar was dubbed Bandar Maharani or Queen's Town in Sultanah Fatimah's honour.

Sungai Sugget river used to be navigable up to today's Tropical Inn hotel. Today, it is mostly covered up leaving only a small, narrow canal and a linear park known as Laman Tun Sri Lanang.

Kwong Wai Siew Hospital today

Wong Ah Fook was one of the founders of Kwong Wai Siew Hospital in Singapore in 1910. I was born in this hospital, quite some time back 🤭

Restaurant name: Hock Chiang Hin 福振兴餐室
Address: 18, Jalan Siu Nam opposite the ESSO PETRON petrol station
GPS: 1.459103,103.766126
Hours: 7:30am to 2:00pm (Closed on Sunday)

Non Halal

Written by Tony Boey on 15 Nov 2012 | Updated 24 Apr 2018, 21 Aug 2023, 30 Sep 2024

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