✍16 Nov 2024. There are many forms of laksa according to regions - there's Penang laksa, Kelantan laksum, Katong laksa, Sarawak laksa, etc. But, only Laksa Johor can claim a royal connection.
In 2023, the Johor government, through Yayasan Warisan Johor (Johor Heritage Foundation) gazetted Laksa Johor as a heritage dish of Johor.
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It is said that Laksa Johor was created by Sultan Abu Bakar of Johor.
Known as the Father of Modern Johor, Sultan Abu Bakar was the consummate diplomat and moderniser.
Sultan Abu Bakar spurred economic development in Johore by encouraging the development of gambier and pepper plantations, bringing in Chinese (Teochew) farmers and Javanese labourers.
Throughout his reign, Sultan Abu Bakar deftly maintained independence from Britain at a time when most of Southeast Asia was being absorbed into European colonial empires.
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| Temenggong Palace where Sultan Abu Bakar was born in 1833 |
Sultan Abu Bakar was born in Telok Blangah in Singapore in 1833 when Singapore was part of the British Straits Settlements (together with Penang, Malacca and Labuan in Borneo).
At that time, the Malay state of Johore was ruled by a Temenggong (Abu Bakar's father) based in Telok Blangah, Singapore. Sultan Abu Bakar succeed his father Temenggong Daeng Ibrahim and ascended the throne as Dato’ Temenggong Sri Maharaja Johor in 1862.
In 1868, he dropped Temenggong from his title and became Maharaja.
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| Extract from Anglo - Johore Treaty 1885 |
By the Anglo - Johore Treaty signed in 1885, the British recognised his title Sultan of Johor and he was crowned in 1886. Sultan Abu Bakar was the first Sultan of Johor from the Temenggong dynasty.
Following the 1885 Treaty, Sultan Abu Bakar introduced western style policies, and administrative systems which included Treasury, Police, Land and Survey, Public Works, Maritime, Customs, Johor Arsenal, Medical, Postal and Education as well as the Johor Military Forces. On 14 April 1895, Sultan Abu Bakar promulgated the Johor State Constitution, the first Malay state to have a formal and written set of laws.
One of the key purpose of all these measures was to convince the British that there was no need to send a Resident (Governor) to Johor as the state was capable of taking care of its own affairs.
Sultan Abu Bakar ruled for 32 years till his death in 1895 during travel in London. And, during his reign, he managed to keep Johor independent of Britain.
What is Laksa Johor?
Before we go any further, there was laksa Johor before the version created by Sultan Abu Bakar.
It was thick rice vermicelli (known as laksa), blanched and smothered by a thick sauce (known as kuah) made with spices, aromatics, herbs, and mashed fish such as ikan parang (wolf herring). The dish was garnished by bean sprouts, sliced cucumber and onion, etc.
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| LAKSA HIDANGAN TERKENAL, TAPI KUAH-NYA BERLAINAN DARI TEMPAT KA-SATEMPAT Berita Harian, 26 September 1960, Page 6 |
A typical Laksa Johor kuah (sauce) recipe from 1960:
1 kati mackerel fish,
1 piece dried ikan kurau fish,
4 pieces live shrimp,
1 piece dried shrimp,
2 coconuts,
Palm sugar,
4 stalks of cilantro,
Cumin,
1 stalk fennel,
20 stalks of dry pepper,
2 stalks of lemongrass,
Galangal (blue ginger),
2 inches of turmeric,
1 piece of belachan,
1 piece shallot,
1 piece garlic,
4 pieces asam gelugor.
The old form of laksa Johor using rice vermicelli likely go back a few hundred years before Sultan Abu Bakar.
Today's Laksa Johor created by Sultan Abu Bakar uses spaghetti in place of thick rice vermicelli. The rice vermicelli version of Laksa Johor is no longer found in Johor but the kuah (sauce) remained basically the same.
How did Italian pasta become part of Laksa Johor?
It's all because of Sultan Abu Bakar.
Sultan Abu Bakar was the first Malay ruler to travel to Europe when he visited England in 1866. Abu Bakar's extensive travels built friendly personal ties with foreign monarchs, while seeking new ideas and opportunities which benefitted Johor.
Johor's modernisation and also modern Laksa Johor are some of the outcomes of Sultan Abu Bakar's travels.
Sultan Abu Bakar became life long friends with Great Britain’s Queen Victoria, making several visits to London, winning her support for the Sultan's ideas e.g. change of title / status from Maharaja to Sultan in 1885.
Maharaja Abu Bakar visited Italy and the Vatican in 1885 on his way to London to see the Secretary of State. He met both King Umberto I of Italy and Pope Leo XIII on 24 Apr 1885 in Rome during his stay from 18 to 24 Apr. Abu Bakar maintained good relations with Italy and the Vatican, and was conferred Commander of the Order of the Crown of Italy in 1891 by King Umberto I.
During his stay in Rome, Maharaja Abu Bakar was well feted as a Maharaja (soon to be Sultan), and tasted the best of Italian cuisine. Pasta must have left a deep impression and legend has it that Maharaja Abu Bakar ordered his royal chef to make Laksa Johor by replacing thick rice vermicelli with spaghetti.
And, so Laksa Johor was created.
This style of laksa found its way out of the palace and into households, homes, restaurants and later, food stalls in Johor. The rice vermicelli type of laksa Johor disappeared.
*If we look at Laksa Johor today from the perspective of Italian cuisine, it is arguably a form of pasta (than a form of laksa), just that the sauce is now made with fish and Southeast Asian spices, herbs and aromatics.
When you enjoy Laksa Johor remember its creator Sultan Abu Bakar, a great statesman, diplomat and moderniser who brought the best from around the world for the betterment of Johor. Laksa Johor is a symbol of modern Johor.
Sup Tulang ZZ makes a good Laksa Johor.
When Sultan Sir Abu Bakar returned to Johor, he directed the palace chef to create a dish combining the traditional laksa gravy with spaghetti. Laksa Johor was thus invented - this must be one of the earliest examples of East-West fusion food 🍝
I've been told many times that the best Laksa Johor can only be found at home - lovingly made for special celebrations.
Going to the market, assembling the numerous ingredients needed for the gravy, like herbs and spices, and fresh Ikan Tenggiri or Ikan Parang is already one big job. To make Laksa Johor you need lemongrass, galangal, tamarind paste, garlic, ginger, shallot, onion, coconut cream, grated coconut, fish, prawn, dried shrimp, belacan, salted fish, kerisik, curry paste, chili pepper, Thai basil, Vietnamese mint, etc.
Then, preparing these ingredients is very labour intensive because to get the authentic taste and flavour, it has to be done by hand, the old way. So, usually most of the family, extended family and even neighbours are involved. Sitting down together, preparing food together is a great bonding ritual.
Fortunately, there are a few eateries recommended by friends of Johor Kaki that serve good Laksa Johor at reasonable prices.
Click on the following pictures of Laksa Johor to read the full story about these recommended Laksa Johor shops.
Hours: 6:00am to 3:00pm (closed on Sunday and Public Holidays)
Hours: 7:00am to 4:00pm (closed on alternate Sundays)
Hours: 10:30am to 9:30pm
The precursor of Laksa Johor uses thick rice vermicelli for carbs (before it was replaced by spaghetti in Johor). Such a laksa can still be found in Singapore but is rarely sold in stalls or eateries. It is known as Laksa Siglap - one place to get it is Warung Selera Masakan Kampung Nasi Campur by Kak Ani in Joo Chiat 👈 click
price per dish?
ReplyDeleteVery reasonable RM5 considering the ingredients and all the work that went into creating the dish.
DeleteTried restoran bumbu asli's laksa today. It was very good. Thanks for the recommendations.
ReplyDeleteI've been living in permas for about 18 years and never knew the existance of al ansar cafe ! Thank you jk for the info.
ReplyDelete