History of Biryani ● How a Persian Import Unites India & Become the Global Indian Food Icon

Biryani came to Singapore and Malaysia from India but the dish originated in Persia (today's Iran).The hearty, flavour and aroma packed meat and rice dish is one of the favourites in Malaysia and Singapore cuisine.

The word biryani is derived from two Persian words. Birinj is the Persian word for "rice". The Persian word Birian means "to fry before cooking" which succinctly sums up the basic method of cooking biryani.

Who brought Biryani to India?

They could be Arab traders, Timur the conqueror, but most people credit the Mughals.

The Mughal empire ruled India from 1526 until 1857. Originally from Central Asia, the Mughals entered India through the northwest (today's Afghanistan and Khyber Pass).

During their 300 year rule, the Mughals brought many things and influences to India - Biryani was the tastiest.

But, the earliest record of a Biryani type dish was the meaty, spicy Tamil rice dish “Oon Soru” from 2 A.D., a long time before the Mughals showed up. These might have been brought to India's Malabar coast by Arab traders. Oon Soru was made with rice, ghee, meat, turmeric, coriander, pepper, and bay leaf. Oon Soru is still made in India's Malabar Coast today.

Traveler historian astrologer Al Biruni wrote about dishes similar to Biryani during his travels in India from 1017 to 1030 - Al Biruni should know Biryani as he was a Persian.

A theory credits the arrival of Biryani in India to Turkic-Mongol conqueror, Timur who in 1398 marched his army on large pots of rice, spices and meat. He marauded India for a year, his loot needed 90 elephants to haul away but he left behind Biryani.

So, forms of Biryani already existed in India before the Mughals arrived in 1526, thanks to traders, travelers, and marauders from Arabia and Central Asia. Arabs and Mongols might have added spice to the origins of Indian Biryani, but there is no dispute that it was the Mughals (late comers in 1526) who popularised Biryani, making it pervasive throughout the country and everywhere Indians settled like in Singapore and Malaysia.

A popular story might have helped endeared the dish to Indians. Mumtaz Mahal, the wife of Shah Jahan I who ruled India from 1628 to 1658 was visiting troops one day when she noticed that they were undernourished and in low spirits.

She ordered the warriors fed with rice, meat and spices i.e. Biryani. Biryani is a hearty full meal and always lifts my spirits too. (Mumtaz Mahal was the inspiration behind the Taj Mahal which Shan Jahan I built to honour her memory. She died in 1631 while giving birth.)

India is a huge country, the original Persian Biryani which the Mughals brought went through many revisions adapting to local spices and ingredients but it is always "fry before cooking".

It turned out that Biryani is a versatile dish that adapts easily to local spices, ingredients, meats and cooking styles. It is one dish that each district or city may have a different take but remains unmistakably a Biryani. In its adaptability, the Biryani became a dish that unites a diverse nation.

There are basically two types of Indian Biryani - Kacchi Biryani where the meat and rice are cooked together, and Pakki Biryani where the meat and rice are cooked separately but eaten together. From Kacchi and Pakki, there are at least fifty regional variations.

In north India, long grain low starch rice like Basmati is the norm. In the south, they use shorter, more starchy rice for Biryani. What sets Indian Biryani apart from its Persian precursors is heavier and more abundant use of spices.

Hyderabadi Biryani from the Heart of India (Central Region)

Hyderabadi biryani is one of the most famous of Indian biryanis. The meat is traditionally goat marinated with fried onion and ghee, spices like cinnamon, cloves, cardamom, bay leaf, nutmeg, papaya paste, Caraway seed, mace, star anise, red chili, green chili, ginger, garlic, lemon, saffron and coriander leaf held together with yogurt. Some recipes call for rose water or kewra water. The marinated meat is raw or warmed slightly with hot water. 

Basmati rice is parboiled in a separate pot, simmering in spice infused water. The partially cooked basmati rice is layered over the spiced goat meat. More partially cooked basmati rice is layered on till the rim of the pot.

Traditionally done "dum" style, cooking is completed in a pot sealed with dough around the rim. Attention and control of fire cooks the spiced goat and rice, infusing everything inside the pot with flavours and aromas from the meat and spices.

In Hyderabadi dum biryani, the flavour and aroma infused basmati rice is the star. It's taste does not jolt you but is alluringly gentle and smooth, drawing you in irresistibly.

Lucknowi Biryani from North India

Lucknowi Biryani is another well known briyani from the north central city of Lucknow. Like Hyderabadi Biryani, Lucknow Biryani is traditionally done "dum" style but the meat is cooked through and in a slightly different spice blend. Parboiled basmati rice is layered over the cooked mutton and cooking is completed in a sealed pot. The dish is dressed with a meat sauce extracted during the earlier cooking of the meat in the dish.

Emphasis is on the meat, usually pieces of goat but on special occasions, even whole animals. With large animals, Lucknowi Biryani is prepared Pakki style i.e. rice and meat cooked separately, but served together. 

Biryani in Singapore & Malaysia

Biryani underwent further local adaptation in Singapore and Malaysia. Biryani in Singapore and Malaysia are generally Pakki style where the meat and rice are cooked separately. The meat is often prepared rendang style which is a Minangkabau people's way of preparing spiced meat. Personally, this is one of my favourite styles of meat and Biryani.

Kacchi or dum style biryani is also available in Singapore and Malaysia, though less common.

Pakki style Biryani where the meats and rice are cooked separately but served together. This sumptuous spread was from Dubai Express stall in Sims Vista Hawker Centre in Singapore.

The popular Geylang Briyani Stall serves Pakki style biryani.

Bollywood Restaurant in Funan Centre serve dum biryani.

The old Tanjong Pagar Nasi Briyani, also known as Ali Nachia Briyani Dam also serves dum biryani.

Tabletop dum claypot biryani by Mr Biryani.

SGD3.50 for this serving of biryani with lamb rendang. Probably the most affordable in Singapore today (unfortunately this stall is permanently closed).

Chicken biryani from Yakader Muslim Food in Tekka Market. 

The famous Allauddin's Briyani in Tekka Market.

The famous Koothurar Nasi Briyani is known to fans as Beach Road nasi briyani.

M S Beryani is one of my favourite biryani in Johor Bahru.

The Kettingi Briyani experience in Johor Bahru.

Hyderabadi style biryani in Johor Bahru.

A well loved, localised biryani at Pa Abib Nasi Briyani stall in Johor Bahru.

Mohd Shah Nasi Baryani, probably the most famous biryani name in Johor, if not Malaysia.

Mohd Shah used to work for the founder of Roslin Beriani, hence you will find the same DNA in both biryani.

For a while, Bamboo Biryani took Malaysia by storm.

Originally from Persia, India has fully embraced the Biryani where it is ubiquitous and synonymous with the country and Indian communities around the world.

       

                     

             

             

               

               

             

           

           

           

                         

           

             

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            A post shared by Tony Boey Johor Kaki (@johorkaki)          

       

     

           

Written by Tony Boey on 14 July 2021 | Reviewed in 29 Jan 2023

References:

Image of Timur courtesy of Wikipedia. Image of Lucknow biryani courtesy of Wikipedia. Image of  Mumtaz Mahal courtesy of Wikipedia. Image of Al Biruni courtesy of Wikipedia. Image of Mughal soldiers courtesy of Wikipedia. Map of India courtesy of Wikipedia.