Katong Laksa by George Ng is another legacy of the legendary Janggut Laksa, the grand father of Singapore Nyonya laksa.
George Ng's father is a relative of Janggut (the "bearded one" is the nickname of Ng Juat Swee). George's father used to run a provision shop in Joo Chiat. Unfortunately, he had to give it up to settle his gambling debts. Penniless, he turned to Janggut for help. Janggut, the fine helpful gentleman that he was, taught George's father the Katong laksa recipe to help him start his own stall. That was in 1955 (that's 68 years ago in 2023).
In 1982, George's father registered his stall under the name "Katong Laksa". Today, George Ng the second generation owner of Katong Laksa stall still serves laksa based on Janggut's recipe. As I sat there at the coffee shop, I saw that many of George's customers are long time regulars and old friends. There's a charming kind of laid back warmth and familiarity on this side of sunny Singapore.
First things first, the curry broth. George's fiery looking curry broth resplendent with coconut milk is the thickest and creamiest of all the Katong laksa that I have tried so far. Yet it did not cross that fine thin line into cloying creaminess - that is finesse to me. Living right at the edge.
Mix in the chopped laksa leaves (daun kesum) and dollop of sambal, the thick curry broth tasted nicely balanced sweet, umami savoury with gentle underlying spiciness. It was slurpy delicious.
The creamy curry broth has soft grainy sediment. George still grinds
his spice paste (rempah in Malay) with a trusty old granite grinder
from his father's time (fortunately it is powered by an electric motor
now). No factory made spice mix for George.
True to Janggut's Katong laksa tradition, toppings were just blood cockles, shelled prawns and strips of fish cake. George serves his blood cockles medium rare by just letting them cook in the bowl of hot curry. There were some bean sprouts buried with the tangle of rice noodles under the reddish creamy broth.
Oh... since his father's time, George does not cut the rice noodles into short strips (which is one of the trademarks of Janggut's laksa).
Recommended for you 👍 Leftovers don't lie. It's a heavy full bodied curry but I couldn't let a single drop go 😜 I like George's well balanced sweet savoury spicy curry which leans very slightly on the sweet side. Can't find a better Katong laksa now. Update 2023 - George is still my personal favourite 💛
👆 click for details
It might surprise you that turning Nyonya laksa into the iconic Singapore hawker dish that it is today, was not the work of Peranakans. So, if not the Peranakans then who? 👈 click
True to Janggut's Katong laksa tradition, toppings were just blood cockles, shelled prawns and strips of fish cake. George serves his blood cockles medium rare by just letting them cook in the bowl of hot curry. There were some bean sprouts buried with the tangle of rice noodles under the reddish creamy broth.
Oh... since his father's time, George does not cut the rice noodles into short strips (which is one of the trademarks of Janggut's laksa).
Recommended for you 👍 Leftovers don't lie. It's a heavy full bodied curry but I couldn't let a single drop go 😜 I like George's well balanced sweet savoury spicy curry which leans very slightly on the sweet side. Can't find a better Katong laksa now. Update 2023 - George is still my personal favourite 💛
👆 click for details
It might surprise you that turning Nyonya laksa into the iconic Singapore hawker dish that it is today, was not the work of Peranakans. So, if not the Peranakans then who? 👈 click
You must read this article on George by Wolf & Bulldog 👈 click
Restaurant name: Katong Laksa 加东叻沙
Address: 307 Changi Road, Singapore
GPS: 1°19'05.5"N 103°54'27.7"E 🌐 1.318197, 103.907694
Tel: 9023-7360
Hours: 8:00am - 3:00pm (alternate Tues off)
GPS: 1°19'05.5"N 103°54'27.7"E 🌐 1.318197, 103.907694
Tel: 9023-7360
Hours: 8:00am - 3:00pm (alternate Tues off)
Written by Tony Boey on 28 Jan 2020 | Updated on 3 Jul 2021 | 9 Sep 2023
Chng Hoon Hoon said on Singapore Yummy Facebook group:
ReplyDelete"I know George when he ply his laksa in a coffee shop opposite wet markey cum food centre in the present cluster of shops of blk 29 chai chee road. This was in the 1970s when the regular lunch crowds were the hoards of hungry workers from the now defunct Rollei factory, and still atound Japanese ball-bearings maker, NMB."
Singapore's own KOKA Singapore Laksa Instant Noodles is peerless too.
ReplyDeleteTony Boey
ReplyDeleteYou must, really.
This is one original Made in Singapore instant noodles that shines.
don't find it at ntxc or cold storxxe now - wonder why??
Deletemy favourite singapore laksa stall 🤗
ReplyDeleteGeorge is not Katong laksa. George started selling his laksa in a kopi shop opposite hawkers ctr cum wet market in Chai Chee Road in the 1970s. I was working holiday as a hawkers assistant inside the hawkers ctr with the braised duck rice. After the whole area of wet market hawkers and kopi shops were torn down to make way of present day foodbhub@chai chee. George then moved to the kopi shop at the corner of Telok Kurau opposite Kim San Leng kopi shop but later resettled and George moved to present day 307. He was never anywhere near katong.
ReplyDeleteTony Boey do you know Janggut? They are about the same age. I went to Fowlie school short walking distance from where Janggut laksa was, corner kopi shop way way before 328 laksa was even conceived. Roxy laksa was opposite when there was a Roxy and Palace cinema.
ReplyDeleteI like his laksa but true Nonya will never add cockles only prawns. 😉 Cockles is a Chinese thing.
ReplyDeleteCockles are added because it’s cheaper than prawns. Probably why you say Hainanese popularised this type of laksa.
ReplyDeleteMarcus Ong Yup, I’ll never forget being sternly admonished by my Grandmother for wanting to add Cockles to the Laksa she cooked! 😅🙏
ReplyDelete