Dear fans of Sang Heng Teochew noodle at Jalan Tan Hiok Nee, the shop is re-opened by uncle Ah Seng's nephew, sister-in-law and younger brother. The noodle and Teochew lor meat are faithful to the old taste during uncle Ah Seng's time. In some aspects, I even feel they have raised it to a higher level, in my humble opinion.
When uncle Ah Seng passed on in 2016, it was a sad day in Johor Bahru. Uncle Ah Seng had been selling his Teochew noodles for fifty years and had a huge multi-generation following both sides of the Causeway.
I am so glad that uncle Ah Seng's nephew, sister-in-law and younger brother are carrying on his legacy sincerely and faithfully at the old shop at Jalan Tan Hiok Nee. My thanks to buddy Evonne for alerting me to the return of this old but still good as gold gem.
The interior at Sang Heng is now neater, more contemporary but still simple and bare bones yet comfortable.
Sang Heng's menu today is the same as during uncle Ah Seng's time. They have Teochew noodles and braised meat (pork and duck) dishes.
Truth be told, knowing how tedious it is to make such a seemingly plain looking dish delicious, I didn't set my hopes high when I came here. Will the new owners run the shop with the same patience and commitment of uncle Ah Seng? I am glad that it turned out beyond my expectations and I immediately diverted a few kakis from Johor over here for lunch 😄
I ordered mee pok dry. When the noodles arrived it looked anaemic and didn't appear very inspiring. Noodles with sauce, topped with fish cake slices, minced pork, small prawns and a sprinkling of chopped green onion.
A small bowl of cloudy soup with two fish balls accompanied the noodles.
The noodles were well sauced, there was more than plenty to envelop the noodles. Perhaps, a little wet and the noodles were done a tad soft for my liking.
I like the umami savoury and lardy flavours of the sauce. The spicy heat was a little shy but easy to fix by asking for more sambal.
Then I turned my attention to the little bowl of soup and fish balls.
On my.... it blew my mind. The cloudy soup was rich with layers of crustacean umami savouriness from prawn shells and ti poh (dried sole fish) plus other secret ingredients.
Next, the two small fish balls.
Shiokness level hit the roof again.
The fish ball has a tender spring that pushes back gently on our bite before it bursts and releases lovely savoury sweet flavours. I trawled my memory and cannot remember better fish balls than these today.
When makan (eating) reinforcements arrived, we ordered more fish balls 😬 Everyone love it!
We got our respective noodles and also some braised meats. Unfortunately, their braised duck was sold out.
From left to right, the braised pork head parts were juicy, soft-tender, gummy, with a melt-in-the-mouth feel to the bite. The umami savoury flavour of the braising stock was at just the right level of intensity for all of us - neither too bland nor too overpowering flat salty. It was rich with layers of umami savouriness and subtle natural porcine sweetness.
Next, the fried pork and yam roll. The roll was filled with mostly soft chopped yam with a bit of pork - I prefer it this way after eating so much meat. The roll was not short of savoury and spice flavours at all. Must order.
Finally, the red fish balls which are hard to get even in Johor. Nice texture though perhaps I would like it better without splashing it with lor (braising stock).
By the time we were done eating, it was closing time at Sang Heng. We had the chance to chat with new owners Ms Seow and her son Ronald Koh who are Ah Seng's sister-in-law and nephew respectively.
Uncle Ah Seng's younger brother is also with the Sang Heng team. He has been working with Sang Heng since uncle Ah Seng's time.
The family starts work at 3am every morning. The fish balls are made by hand with 100% pure fresh yellowtail fish. Ah Seng's younger brother is also a master in Teochew braise meats.
Fans of Sang Heng Teochew Noodle, your favourite noodle place is back. Time to relive the flavours of old times!
Written by Tony Boey on 10 Aug 2022
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