2000 years ago, sailors and traders from South India know that they have crossed the Indian Ocean and Andaman Sea when they saw the peaks of Gunung Jerai mountain in Kedah.
They found the local people here friendly, the land had the goods they came looking for and the locals desired the things the Indians brought. So they began trading.
These were the days of sail, the Indian traders and sailors had to stay in the area to wait for the wind to change and bring them home. During the months long wait, their interactions with locals deepened.
The locals liked the ideas these Indian sailors and traders brought. Ideas that increased their food production, their understanding of how the world / universe work, the meaning of life in this and the spirit world, how to organise people to live harmoniously in large groups, etc. New ideas on how to prepare food / dishes must have interested the locals too.
These people who arrived from across the vast oceans were wise and well looked upon by the locals. So, the locals adopted their ideas. Local chieftains took them into their confidence as advisers, married their daughters to these wise, charismatic men. Soon, some of these foreign men became kings in the new land.
In an oversimplified way, this was how Indianised kingdoms emerged in old Kedah, the Malay Archipelago and Southeast Asia in general.
The Langkasuka kingdom which existed from the 2nd to the 15th century AD in today's north Malaysia (peninsula) and south Thailand was one of them.
The name Langkasuka was from Sanskrit - Langka meaning "beautiful" and Langkasuka means "blissful resplendent land" or "happy rich land".
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| The Marong Mahawangsa legend at the Kedah Royal Musuem |
According to the Kedah Annals, Langkasuka was founded by Raja Marong Mahawangsa. When Raja Marong Mahawangsa arrived from Rome, the locals impressed by his abilities offered him land and kingship.
During its zenith, the Langkasuka kingdom stretched from Surat Thani (today's Thailand) in the north to Kelantan / Trengganu / Perak (today's Malaysia) in the south, and from the west coast to the east coast of the Malay peninsula.
The Liangshu 梁書 (Book of Liang) written in 635 AD referred to Langkasua as Lang Yia Xiu 狼牙脩.
Liangshu said that it took 20 days to travel from north to south and 30 days from east to west of the Langkasuka kingdom.
The Liangshu citing accounts from locals said that Langkasuka was founded around 200 AD.
The Chinese came here for its agarwood and camphor wood sought after for their healing / therapeutic properties and to make incense.
Another Chinese source, the Nanshi 南史 (History of the Southern Dynasties) written in 659 AD by Chinese traders / travellers, said the capital of Langkasuka was a walled city with many gates and guard towers. But, no one is absolutely sure now where the Langkasuka capital was.
Discovery of new relics such as 8th - 9th century stone inscriptions, and stupas unearthed at Bukit Choras (south of Alor Setar in Kedah) were announced just days ago (22 Sep 2023).
We are learning something new about the Langkasuka kingdom literally from day to day.
The Langkasuka kingdom was preceded by the Bujang Valley civilisation in the same space (Kedah) but much earlier - relics found at the Sungai Batu site carbon dated back to 535 BC.
The Sungai Batu site has an ancient iron ore smelting facility which produced iron ingots for export. Remains of smelting kilns, ancient docks, wrecks of old ships and religious structures were found at the site. The Bujang Valley inhabitants were believed to be animists i.e. pre-Hindu.
Excavation of the Sungai Batu site - Bujang Valley civilisation is still in progress and its hidden history is unfolding slowly.
The name of the Sungai Batu - Bujang Valley civilisation is still undetermined, so it is temporarily referred to simply as Kedah Tua or Old Kedah.
Langkasuka kingdom is contemporary with Funan - the first Indianised empire in Indochina. Funan was a Hindu empire which existed from 50 AD - 550 AD. Funan territory stretched from the Isthmus of Kra eastwards to the South China Sea.
Funan was succeed by the Khmer empire which lasted from 802 AD - 1431 AD. The Khmers were allied with the Cholas in southern India while Langkasuka was with the Srivijaya. Disputes over trade routes between Chola-Khmer and Srivijaya-Langkasuka led to the massive Chola invasion in 1025. Tamil sources mentioned that Langkasuka fought bravely "undaunted in fierce battles".
Srivijaya-Langkasuka forces were routed which sent both on the road of decline and dissolution.
Second Chola Invasion of Langkasuka 1068.
After the Chola invasion of Srivijaya and Langkasuka in 1025, the Srivijaya empire fell into decline which they never recovered and eventually ending in their dissolution. Srivijayan vassals, including Langkasuka started breaking away.
The Srivijayan king made peace with the Cholas and sought their help to bring Langkasuka back into the Srivijayan fold. In 1068, Virajendra Chola obliged - he invaded Langkasuka and handed it to back the Srivijayan empire.
The end of Langkasuka was unclear, probably because it crumbled in bits and pieces over time. When the Langkasuka kingdom finally dissolved, it was replaced by the Sultanate of Kedah in the west and Sultanate of Patani (1457 - 1902) in the east.
Why is all these history relevant in a food blog?
I am looking for dishes that survived the 2,000 years from Langkasuka to today's north Malaysia / South Thailand and Southeast Asia.
In his Langkasuka Cookbook Project, Roslisham Ismail focusing on Kelantan (his home) listed:
- Singgang tulang (spicy bone soup)
- Gulai kadol ikan keli (spicy catfish stew)
- Belut goreng lada (spicy fried eel)
- Sayur terong goreng bilis (bringal with fried anchovies)
- Ikan kering (dried fish)
- Budu nyior muda (young coconut with anchovy sauce)
- Ulam-ulam (salad)
- Ayam bakar (grilled chicken)
- Serati solor (grilled duck)
Pekasam could be another one of them. What others might there be?
Share your ideas!
References:
Indian Roots of Southeast Asian Cuisine
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