The Historic City of Ayutthaya, founded in 1350, was the second capital city of the Siamese Kingdom. Before it was sacked in 1767 in the war with Burma, Ayutthaya was a global centre of diplomacy and trade as well as one of the world's largest and most cosmopolitan cities. Traders from India, Arabia and China lived together with Thais. At its height, Ayutthaya had a population of over 1 million people. Ayutthaya, home to over 500 Buddhist temples is still the spiritual centre of Thais.
Located just 81 kilometres north of Bangkok, it takes only 1.5 hours by car to get to Ayutthaya. This proximity makes Ayutthaya one of the ideal day trips from Bangkok. Besides the historic city and temples, Ayutthaya is also famous for its legendary giant river prawns (which every visitor must try) and roti sai mai (its like candy floss popiah).
It is also possible to travel between Ayutthaya and Bangkok by boat on the Chao Phraya River but we didn't try it this time. This is something I want to do next time. Ayutthaya is worth many more visits!
The Ancient City of Ayutthaya with all its remains is considered cultural property of outstanding universal value. The ancient city of Ayutthaya is listed as a World Heritage by UNESCO in 1991.Temple name: Wat Yai Chai Mongkhon วัดใหญ่ชัยมงคล
Address: 40 Khlong Suan Phlu, Phra Nakhon Si Ayutthaya District, Phra Nakhon Si Ayutthaya 13000, Thailand
Hours: 8:00am - 5:00pm
Our first stop was Wat Yai Chai Mongkhon, one of the most important temples in Ayutthaya. It is still an active temple where monks reside and conduct ceremonies.
The site of Wat Yai Chai Mongkhon was originally an important Khmer temple. When the Ayutthaya kingdom was established in 1350, founder King U-Thong (also known as King Ramathibodi I) proclaimed it the royal temple and it was named Wat Pakaew.
A large wall mural at Wat Yai Chai Mongkhon's ordination hall depicts the epic battle during the Burmese invasion in 1593 in which King Naresuan (reign 1590 - 1605) slew the crown prince of Burma, Mingyi Swa. After King Naresuan repulsed the Burmese invasion in 1593, Wat Pakaew was renamed Wat Yai Chai Mongkhon which means the "Great Monastery of Auspicious Victory".
Many of the bricks lining the walls of Wat Yai Chai Mongkhon and other Ayutthaya temples were made with a mixture of red clay and rice husks (both available in abundance).
When Ayutthaya eventually fell to the Burmese in 1767, Wat Yai Chai Mongkhon was badly damaged and abandoned. It was only reestablished in the 1950s. The badly damaged temple was restored, so many of the stone statues today are replicas.
The original reclining Buddha statue at Wat Yai Chai Mongkhon was constructed during the reign of King Naresuan (1590 - 1605).
The reclining Buddha statue seen today is a replica that was made in 1965.
We climbed up the steps that lead up to a platform for bird's eye views of the temple complex.
Looking down from the top of the stairs, the ubosot (ordination hall) of Wat Yai Chai Mongkhon.
Roti sai mai shops and stalls are a common sight in Ayutthaya. This one is just outside Wat Yai Chai Mongkhon.
Temple name: Wat Mahathat
Address: Wat Mahathat, Naresuan Road, Tha Wasukri, Phra Nakhon Si Ayutthaya District, Phra Nakhon Si Ayutthaya 13000, Thailand
Hours: 8:00am - 5:00pm
Our second stop was Wat Mahathat built by the third king of Ayutthaya Kingdom, King Borommarachathirat (reign 1370 - 1388). Wat Mahathat (built in 1374) means "Temple of the Great Relic".
Wat Mahathat was a royal temple of the Ayutthaya Kingdom and housed the lord Buddha's holy relic.
Wat Phra Mahathat was badly damaged by Burmese invaders in 1767, abandoned and never reestablished. Most of the Buddha statues have their heads missing, looted for art and antiquity "collectors".
One of the fascinating highlights of Wat Mahathat is the head of a Buddha statue entwined in the roots of a Bodhi tree.
It is uncertain how the Buddha head in the Bodhi tree came about. One theory is a looter abandoned the Buddha head under the Bodhi tree and its roots subsequently enveloped it and lifted it up over the years.
The sun was scorching so I came prepared with a cap, long sleeve golf shirt with UV protection, long pants and comfortable trekking shoes for lots of walking. (Bermudas are acceptable as long as they cover the knees.) As this is scared ground, do comply with any signs at the temples.
We stopped for lunch and enjoyed Ayutthaya's legendary giant river prawns. Ayutthaya giant river prawns have snowy white meat which is firmer than lobster meat. The crunchy, slightly sinewy meat has a delicately sweet flavour. The head is loaded with creamy head butter which is rich in umami savouriness. In my humble opinion, Ayutthaya giant river prawns taste better than any lobster that I've had so far. We had our lunch and giant river prawn at Sampaonava restaurant 👈 click
Temple name: Wat Phra Si Sanphet
Address: Tambon Pratuchai, Phra Nakhon Si Ayutthaya District, Phra Nakhon Si Ayutthaya 13000, Thailand
Hours: 8:00am - 5:00pm
Wat Phra Si Sanphet was originally Wang Lung Palace (Royal Palace) built by King U-Thong (reign 1351 - 1369), the founder of the Ayutthaya Kingdom. King Borommatrailokkanat (reign 1448 - 1488) converted it into Wat Phra Si Sanphet and made it the royal temple.
The three towering stupas of Wat Phra Si Sanphet house the ashes of King Borommatrailokkanat, King Borommarachathirat III, and King Ramathibodi II - the 8th, 9th and 10th kings of the Ayutthaya Kingdom respectively.
Wat Phra Si Sanphet means "Temple of the Holy, Splendid Omniscient". During its heyday, Wat Phra Si Sanphet is Ayutthaya's grandest temple and considered the spiritual centre of Thais. Today, Wat Phra Si Sanphet is still regarded as the symbol of Ayutthaya province.
Temple name: Wihan Phra Mongkhon Bophit
Address: Naresuan Road, Pratu Chai Sub-district, Phra Nakhon Si Ayutthaya District, Phra Nakhon Si Ayutthaya 13000, Thailand
Hours: 8:00am - 5:00pm
Vihara Phra Mongkhon Bophit is steps away south of Wat Phra Si Sanphet.
The bronze buddha of Vihara Phra Mongkhon Bophit which is one of the largest in Thailand has a lap measurement of 9.55 metres and height of 12.45 metres.
Vihara Phra Mongkhon Bophit which means the "Buddha of the Holy and Supremely Auspicious Reverence" was built in 1538 under King Chairacha (reign 1534 - 1547) at Wat Chi Chiang Sai.
Vihara Phra Mongkhon Bophit was ruined by Burmese troops during the sack of Ayutthaya in 1767. The Buddha statue was covered in gilded gold, so the Burmese set the temple on fire to melt the gold and carted it back to Burma.
King Chulalongkorn or King Rama V (reign 1868 - 1910) restored and reestablished Vihara Phra Mongkhon Bophit.
Temple name: Wat Chaiwatthanaram วัดไชยวัฒนาราม
Address: 8GVR+5PX, Tambon Ban Pom, Phra Nakhon Si Ayutthaya District, Phra Nakhon Si Ayutthaya 13000, Thailand
Hours: 8:00am - 5:00pm
Our fifth temple and last for this day trip was Wat Chaiwatthanaram which means the "Temple of Long Reign and Glorious Era". Wat Chaiwatthanaram was built in 1630 by King Prasat Thong (reign 1629 - 1656) in honour of his mother. It was modelled after the Khmer Angkor Wat temple.
Wat Chaiwatthanaram is a royal temple. Religious ceremonies were held here - royal family members were cremated and their ashes kept here.
Wat Chaiwatthanaram has a Khmer-style central pagoda surrounded by eight smaller prangs symbolising Mount Meru which is the gods' mountain according to Hindu, Jain and Buddhist belief.
At the base of the eight smaller prangs are chapels.
Inside the chapels, there are 1 or 2 sitting Buddha statues. These Buddha statues at Wat Chaiwatthanaram are among the best preserved original relics of Ayutthaya temples.
The parameter wall is surrounded by 120 Buddha statues. Sadly, all have their head and hands missing, looted by art and antiquity "collectors".
It is believed that the Burmese army was based here at Wat Chaiwatthanaram during the siege and destruction of Ayutthaya, and they had buttressed the parameter wall. The temple was abandoned and looted after the sack of Ayutthaya.
Wat Chaiwatthanaram is one of the most visited historic temples of Ayutthaya. Visitors can rent Ayutthaya era costumes from stalls near the temple for photo taking. Costume rental are now at Baht 100 per hour (May 2022 price).
Tourists join locals in the Ayutthaya costume craze thanks to the global popularity of Thai dramas such as "Love Destiny" which was filmed right here at Wat Chaiwatthanaram.
We had a fruitful day in Ayutthaya. Learned a lot about Thai history and tasted memorable dishes. We still had enough energy at the end of the day and went back to Bangkok for dinner in one of its famed night markets 😄 (More about that in this post 👈 click )
A temple tour of Ayutthaya is a must for devout Buddhists and history buffs visiting Bangkok.
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