So I completed the climb up to the Monastery at the Tiger's Nest in Paro. It was a wonderful experience which I will share in detail in a separate post.
The next thing on the agenda was to soak away all the muscle aches with a traditional Bhutanese hot stone bath 🤭
We chose the hot stone bath at Chencho Farm Stay about 5 minutes drive from the foot of Tiger's Nest.
A hot stone bath is exactly what it says it is. Large stones are wood fired till they are white hot.
The white hot stones are then dropped into a wooden tub of water.
I should have known what that wide grin meant for me 😬
In the tub was a fresh herb that is like a cross between mint and coriander in terms of fragrance.
The bathing room was pretty rustic, putting it nicely. There were three bath rooms separated by curtains and one changing room. Slippers and towels were provided.
What's it like in the tub?
The steamy water was hot!! I felt like I was being poached alive 😰 But, the operators were on standby and will come to your rescue add cold water on request. I added about 2 gallons of cold water 😬
It felt similar to a hot jacuzzi bath but with minerals from the hot stones and fresh herbs added.
After my hot stone bath, Ngawang Dorji the owner of the farm stay showed me around her house.
Bhutanese like their food spicy hot and eat chili with every meal. Yes, every meal. This is a traditional chili pounder, still in use.
Bhutanese homes have phallic symbols and artefacts as it is believed to ward off negative energies and bad luck.
Ngawang Dorji's 200 year old house is used as a home / farm stay. So I asked Ngawang how many guest rooms does she have?
Her answer surprised and delighted me. Piqued my curiosity.
You see, a traditional Bhutanese house has three levels. The ground level was traditionally used to keep animals like pigs, horses and poultry. But, this was banned due to hygiene and health reasons.
This shed used to be for raising animals is today, the hot stone bath room.
The second level is where the hall, rooms, and kitchen are located. Hence, there is a ladder to access the main living area.
Ngawang Dorji welcoming us into her home. This is the main entrance on the second floor, the main living area.
The third or roof level is used as a store area, and where vegetables (like chili pepper), and meat (like pork) are air / sun dried.
This is the living room where people huddle around a wood fired stove for warmth. Winter temperatures in Bhutan are typically sub-zero degree Celcius.
The bedroom area where there are a few mattresses.
A ritual room where monks are invited to conduct prayer ceremonies.
The family altar room.
The kitchen with wood fired stove and behind that curtain is the toilet.
So, back to the question of how many guest rooms does Chencho Farm Stay have. The answer is none but they can host up to to six guests. How? 🤔
You see, in a traditional Bhutanese home, there are no individual private rooms or space, the kind which we are familiar with or take for granted.
Family members sleep wherever they can lie down. Typically, in the living areas such as the living room and also the kitchen. Males may also sleep in the ritual room. Visiting monks would use the ritual room.
It was a little late to arrange to stay at Chencho Farm Stay this time but Ngawang Dorji generously agreed to host us for lunch the next day 🙏
Ngawang's father-in-law. Chewing betel nut is still a custom in Bhutan.
We stayed for tea and decided there and then that we should come back for a traditional Bhutanese lunch, the next day. Hospitable and gracious Ngawang agreed to host us right away.
We are back!
I changed into Bhutan's national dress, traditional Bhutanese gho made with cotton weaved with Bhutanese motifs. It's like a robe and felt heavy.
On my right is driver Kencho and my left guide Sonam. Both are experts in Bhutanese culture, and know the best photo spots. Equally important, they are both fun loving and we had a great time laughing together 😀
Visiting Bhutan is easier for English speakers as Bhutanese are effectively bilingual in their national language Dzongkha and English.
Ngawang graciously prepared a sumptuous and scrumptious traditional Bhutanese lunch for us 🙏 Everything was grown in Ngawang's own farm house (except for the air dried pork).
Dumplings (known as momo in Bhutan) filled with shredded carrot, radish, cheese, etc. No meat here but traditionally filled with yak meat.
Chili cheese (ema datshi), Bhutan's national dish. Bhutanese love their food spicy hot and practically every meal has chili cheese.
Chili cheese can be made with fresh red or green chili peppers. The fleshy pepper are smothered in a blend of melted cheeses.
Creamy heavy pumpkin soup with cheese, herbs and chili. We started with the pumpkin soup like a starter or appetizer.
Potato cheese. Besides chili peppers, Bhutanese love cheese and enjoy it with practically everything 😁
Stir fried squash with chicken and cheese. I love the fleshy, juicy, crunchy sweetness of the farm fresh gourd.
Air dried pork (si-kam in Bhutanese) with radish, chili and cheese.
I have fallen in love with Bhutanese air dried pork. The fat is thick, and has texture incredibly like candied winter melon, slightly crunchy and filled with savoury juices inside.
I also love crunchy, juicy radish, and when done the Bhutanese way with chili and cheese, woolala, it was wonderful 😋
Chili paste made by pounding dried and fresh chili together. It's like Malay / Indonesian sambal. Use it to spike up the spiciness level of your food, if you find it is not hot enough 🥵
We enjoyed all these dishes with boiled red rice.
Flavours of Bhutanese food come completely from the ingredients. Bhutanese cooking uses no sauce, no spices, no MSG, no wine but it is delicious!
The rice and portions of side dishes are enjoyed on a wooden plate. The best way to enjoy Bhutanese food is with our hand and fingers.
We had a wonderful time at Chencho Farm Stay and it was one of the highlights of my Bhutan trip. This won't be my last time.
Pro-tip: Come to Chencho Village Home Farm Stay ☎ +975 1782 4314 for Bhutanese hot stone bath and a lovingly home cooked lunch after coming down from Tiger's Nest.
I wish to be back 🙏
Chencho Farm House Farm Stay
Address: Tsento Gewog, Paro, Western Bhutan (Opposite Taktsang Boutique & Spa, Taktsang Trail, Ramthangkha 11001 Bhutan)
Tel: +975 1782 4314
Written by Tony Boey on 23 Dec 2023
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