Tony Johor Kaki Travels for Food · Heritage · Culture · History

Adventurous Foodie Geographer's Diary with 70 million+ reads 📧 johorkaki@gmail.com

Chezcake Bistro · Joo Chiat's Well Kept Secret · Singapore Cheesecake Wonderland

Chezcake_Bistro_Cheesecake_Joo_Chiat

After our lunch today in Joo Chiat, we adjourned for our usual coffee and cakes. Walking down Joo Chiat road, we stumbled upon Chezcake Bistro and quickly stepped inside to escape the stifling humidity and heat outside.

Humble Chezcake Bistro is right next door to trendy Common Man Coffee Roasters. But, it turned out that low profile Chezcake Bistro is a "hidden" cheesecake paradise for cheesecake lovers (me included).

Restaurant name: Chezcake Bistro


Address: 189 Joo Chiat Road, Singapore 427460


Tel: 6346 6466 ☎ 9755 6697


Hours: 12:00 noon - 10:00pm (Mon off)

Tekka Braised Duck · Heng Gi Goose & Duck Rice 兴记鸡鸭饭

Tekka_Heng_Gi_Goose_Duck_Rice_兴记鸡鸭饭

Every time I post something about lor ark or braised duck, there's a good chance that a fan or two of Heng Gi will reach out to me and ask if I have tried their favourite duck rice stall. I finally did recently. I like it because it's an old school lor ark reminiscent of 1960s Singapore.

Stall name: Heng Gi Goose and Duck Rice


Address: 665 Buffalo Road, stall #01–335, Tekka Centre, Singapore 210665


Nearest MRT: Little India station


Tel: 6396 0969


Hours: 8:00am - 3:00pm (Sun off)

Goro Japanese Cuisine in a HDB Block @ 43 Holland Drive near Buona Vista MRT

Goro_Japanese_Cuisine_43_Holland_Drive

We met up at Goro Japanese restaurant located in block 43, Holland Drive which is just beside Holland Drive Hawker Centre. Overall, we had a good time and I would go back, especially for their unagi and maki. Next time, I would also like to try their other dishes, including omakase.

Stall name: Goro Japanese Cuisine


Address: 43 Holland Drive, #01-49, Singapore 270043


Nearest MRT: 5 minutes walk from Buona Vista station


Tel: 6358 3959


Hours: 11:00am - 2:30pm | 5:30pm - 10:00pm

MUM's Recipe Ngoh Hiang · Homemade Hokkien Pork & Prawn Roll in Singapore

MUM_Recipe_Ngoh_Hiang

My friend Janet and mum recently launched their home based Hokkien style ngoh hiang. I dropped by at their home in Ang Mo Kio to see how the ngoh hiang (pork and prawn rolls) are made and to taste some 😄

Immigrant Roots of Singapore Hawker Culture · Thai, Indonesian & Chinese Chicken Rice

Lau_Pa_Sat
Lau Pa Sat, Singapore's first market is a thriving food court today

Singapore hawker culture is a delicious blend of all the food cultures of people who come to live and work in the Singapore melting pot since 1819. There's cuisine from the ancient civilisations of India and China, and neighbouring countries Malaysia and Indonesia. Slightly further afield, we have dishes from Indochina, and beyond, from Europe.

Curry Puff at Heap Seng Leong Coffee Shop

Curry_Puff_Heap_Seng_Leong_Coffee_Shop

You know, when I happen to be in the North Bridge Road / Golden Mile area and have time on my hands, I enjoy chilling out at Heap Seng Leong coffeeshop with their bulletproof coffee and a curry puff. There's something about the charm of gritty Hainanese or Foochow coffeeshops whether in Singapore, Malaysia or the Riaus of Indonesia. (Heap Seng Leong coffee shop was founded by Hainanese and current owners are Foochow.)

Stall name: No name curry puff stall in Heap Seng Leong coffee shop


Address: 10 North Bridge Road, #01-5109, Singapore 190010


Nearest MRT: 5 minutes walk from Lavender station


Hours: 6:00am - 3:00pm

Beach Road Chuan Kee Duck Rice & Roasted @ Luk Lu Eating House 全記鸭饭烧腊

Beach_Road_Chuan_Kee_Duck_Rice__Luk_Lu_Eating_House_全記鸭饭烧腊

Walking along Beach Road on my way to Golden Mile Food Centre today, I stumbled upon Chuan Kee Duck Rice & Roasted 全記鸭饭烧腊. I must have past this way hundreds of times but today I noticed that a few tables at the coffee shop had plates of braised duck and pork. Curious, I went inside to check.

Stall name: Chuan Kee Duck Rice & Roasted 全記鸭饭烧腊


Address: 341 Beach Road, Singapore 199567 (stall inside Luk Lu Eating House)


Nearest MRT: 10 minutes walk from Bugis station


Hours: 7:00am - 2:00pm (Sun off)

Seah Street, Purvis Street & Middle Road · History of Little Hainan · Birthplace of Singapore Chicken Rice

Purvis_Street

Three streets, Seah Street, Purvis Street and Middle Road once formed the historic Hainanese enclave of Singapore. This is the birthplace of Singapore chicken rice and other Hainanese hawker or coffeeshop staples which are now deeply engrained in Singapore hawker culture. Indirectly, the glamorous Singapore Sling was also conceived in these gritty streets.

History of Lau Pa Sat · Telok Ayer Market · Singapore's First Market 老巴刹的历史

History_Lau_Pa_Sat_Singapore's_First_Market_老巴刹的历史

Singapore's first market, known today as Lau Pa Sat 老巴刹 has its roots in the riverside fishermen's market when Raffles landed at Singapore River in 1819. A lot has changed in the last 200 years.

Its entire surroundings is transformed beyond recognition imagination - Lau Pa Sat is today, nestled in the shadow of gleaming, looming glass towers that sprouted up all around it. The old market has undergone great physical changes and its character has also morphed from a fish market to a festival market to today's buzzing hawker food centre.

Lau Pa Sat 老巴刹


Address: 18 Raffles Quay, Singapore 048582


Nearest MRT: 5 minutes walk from Raffles station exit F (Market street)


Tel: 6220 2138


Hours: 24/7

Hidden Thai Chicken Rice in Golden Mile Complex by Ah Liang from Hat Yai

Thai_Chicken_Rice_Golden_Mile_Complex

There may be something to this thing call "Law of Attraction". I mean, I was researching the different types of chicken rice dishes in Singapore, and buddy Wilbur of AroiMakMak's post on a low profile chicken rice shop in Golden Mile Complex caught my attention. 

Stall name: No name Thai food shop


Address: Beach Road, Golden Mile Complex, unit #01-15B, Singapore 199588


Nearest MRT: 10 minutes walk from Lavender station


Hours: 12:30pm - 3:00pm

Surprising History of Nasi Ayam Penyet · Iconic Chicken & Rice from Indonesia

History_Ayam_Penyet

The Indonesian dish, nasi ayam penyet is found throughout the vast Indonesian archipelago, Malaysia, Singapore and Brunei, in what is known as Nusantara (an old Javanese term referring to the realm of the Majapahit empire). One might have thought that the ubiquitous dish that conquered Nusantara should be as old as the Majapahit empire (1293 - 1527). Actually, it was created recently, in the 1990s 🤔 

Kiam Chye Ark Salted Vegetable Duck Soup @ Blk 22 Bgain Eating House Sin Ming Road

Kiam_Chye_Ark_Salted_Vegetable_Duck_Soup

One of my favourite old working lunch haunts from years ago was the couple of coffee shops at Blk 22 Sin Ming Road. There were many interesting food stalls here, so there's something for everyone. In particular, there were three soup stalls - a bak kut teh stall, a braised duck stall with duck soup, and a "earth jar" soup stall. I've had them all, many times. Of the three, till today I still have a craving for the humble, comforting duck soup or kiam chay ark 咸菜鸭 from Hup Seng Duck Rice stall.

Stall name: Hup Seng Duck Rice


Address: 22 Sin Ming Road, Singapore 570022 (stall inside 22 Bgain Eating House coffee shop)


Nearest MRT: 15 minutes walk from Upper Thomson station


Tel: 6454 3810


Hours: 9:00am - 1:00pm (Thurs off)

Don Don Prawn Mee @ Circuit Road Food Centre 咚咚虾面

Don_Don_Prawn_Mee_Circuit_Road_咚咚虾面

Johor Kaki reader Leonard recommended me to visit Don Don Prawn Mee at Circuit Road Food Centre. It is his favourite prawn noodle stall.

Stall name: Don Don Prawn Mee 咚咚虾面


Address: 79 Circuit Road, stall #01-42, Singapore 370079 (Circuit Road Food Centre)


Nearest MRT: 5 minutes walk from Mattar station


Tel: 8642 8641


Hours: 11:00am - 10:00pm (Weds off)

Lai Heng · Shunfu Fried Kway Teow with Otah · Ex Lakeview Shopping Centre 来兴炒粿条

Lai_Heng_Shunfu_Fried_Kway_Teow_with_Otah

Lai Heng Fried Kuay Teow stall is one of the favourites of regulars at Shunfu Market & Food Centre. It has a loyal following from its Lakeview food centre days since the 1970s.

Stall name: Lai Heng Fried Kuay Teow & Cooked Food 来兴炒粿条


Address: 320 Shunfu Rd, stall #02-20, Singapore 570320 (Shunfu Market & Food Centre)


Nearest MRT: 10 minutes walk from Upper Thomson station or Marymount station


Tel: 91831684


Hours: 9:30am - 7:30am (Mon off)

Katong Dreaming · Musical Tour by Betel Box · Get Insight Katong beyond Clichéd Facades

Katong_Dreaming_Musical_Tour_Betel_Box

Betel Box The Real Singapore Tours did it again, taking Singapore walking tours to the next level with Katong Dreaming. Telling the stories of Katong through original songs, verse and dance ably presented by host Mark Tan and movement artist Valerie Lim.

Mind Blown by Grilled Milkfish @ Raffles City · Menu & Review 虱目鱼

Milkfish_Raffles_City

Makan kaki Eva originally from Taipei misses the taste of milkfish and was excited when she heard about Milkfish restaurant at Raffles City. We had our makan session there today and were all blown away by the grilled milkfish belly. Milkfish restaurant have other pretty delicious dishes too.

Restaurant name: Milkfish Raffles City 虱目鱼


Address: Raffles City Shopping Centre, #B1-44F, Singapore 179103


Nearest MRT: At City Hall station


Tel: +65 6254 4946


Hours: 11:30am - 9:00pm

KPT Coffeeshop Popular No Signboard Fish Soup · Pork Organ Soup @ 127 Bukit Merah Lane 1

No_Signboard_Fish_Soup_Pork_Organ_Soup_Bukit_Merah

Chef Benny Se Teo told me about this no signboard fish soup · pork organ soup stall at Bukit Merah in the same coffeeshop as Poh Cheu Teochew kueh stall. "Can fight with Mui Siong" the most famous stall for pork liver in Singapore 😮 That's a very serious claim that must be investigated as soon as possible 😂

Stall name: No Name Fish Soup Stall


Address: 127 Bukit Merah Lane 1, Block 127, Singapore 150127 (stall inside KPT kopitiam)


Nearest MRT: 15 minutes walk from Queenstown station


Hours: 7:00am - 2:00pm (break time 10:15 - 10:45, Sat & Sun off)

Rong Fa (Mui Siong) Pork Liver @ Bukit Merah · Same Sans the Queue of Veerasamy Road 榮發(梅松)肉脞面

Rong_Fa_(Mui_Siong)_Pork_Liver_Bukit_Merah_榮發(梅松)肉脞面

I am a fan of Mui Siong Minced Meat Noodle stall's thick soft-crunchy pork liver but I haven't been there for a very long time, put off by the hour long queue at Veerasamy Road. So, when I heard about a branch in Bukit Merah Central known as Rong Fa, I quickly went there to calm my liver craving. The two stalls are almost the same in taste.

Stall name: Rong Fa (Mui Siong) Minced Meat Noodle 榮發(梅松)肉脞面


Address: 3752 Bukit Merah Central, Singapore 159848


Nearest MRT: 20 minutes walk from Redhill station


Hours: 7:30am - 2:00pm (Sun off)

Double Happy Bak Kut Teh @ Zion Riverside Food Centre · Taste of Old Singapore Bak Kut Teh 雙喜肉骨茶

Double_Happy_Bak_Kut_Teh_Zion_Riverside_雙喜肉骨茶

This is one of the oldest names in Singapore bak kut teh supported by a loyal following, yet it is has a very low media profile. The first time I tried to eat here, everything was sold out by 10:30am. Today, we got here at 9am to experience Double Happy Bak Kut Teh. I said experience because Double Happy is not only about the taste but also the entire experience.

Stall name: Double Happy Bak Kut Teh 雙喜肉骨茶


Address: 70 Zion Road, stall #01-27, Singapore 247792 (Zion Riverside Food Centre)


Nearest MRT: 5 minutes walk from Havelock station | 15 minutes walk from Tiong Bahru station


Tel: 6836 0816


Hours: 7:30am - 2:00pm (Mon 0ff)

Traditional Teochew Kueh @ Yoon's Social Kitchen · Powered by Women Ex-drug Offenders

Teochew_Kueh_Yoon's_Social_Kitchen

Buddy Timothy suggested we meet up at Yoon's Social Kitchen to try out Teochew kueh by Yoon's Traditional Teochew Kueh. When I got here, I realised that Yoon's Social Kitchen is a social enterprise with a mission to empower women ex-drug offenders "to lead a dignified life free from the bondage of drugs through sustainable employment... ". Besides artisanal traditional Teochew kueh, Yoon's Social Kitchen also serve local delights like mee siam, lontong, Hokkien mee, fried rice, etc.

Stall name: Yoon's Social Kitchen by Yoon's Traditional Teochew Kueh


Address: 401 Macpherson Road, Ground Level, #01-07 Macpherson Mall, Singapore 368125


Nearest MRT: 15 minutes walk from Mattar station


Hours: 8:30am - 3:00pm (Sun off | No kueh on Mon)

Sea Cucumber Trade & the Rise of Islam in Indonesia in the 13th Century

Sea cucumbers have long been highly prized in Chinese cuisine for their health benefits. Chinese traders have since the first century come to the Malay archipelago to source for sea cucumbers. The wealth from the sea cucumber trade likely helped established the kingdom of Samudera Pasai which became the first Islamic sultanate in the Malay world. From Samudera Pasai, Islam spread across the Malay peninsula and archipelago. Today, Indonesia is the largest Muslim country in the world with 207 million adherents.

Da Dong Prawn Noodles @ 354 Joo Chiat · Tastes Like Unfried Hokkien Mee 大東蝦麵

Da_Dong_Prawn_Noodles_Joo_Chiat_大東蝦麵

Da Dong in Joo Chiat is one of the highest profile traditional prawn noodle stalls in Singapore. Tried it for the first time today as I was in Joo Chiat to run an errand. I enjoyed it as I like its robust savoury umami soup.

Stall name: Da Dong Prawn Noodles 大東蝦麵


Address: 354 Joo Chiat Road, Singapore 427600


Hours: 7:30am - 2:00pm (Tues off)

Sims Place Toa Payoh Branch Chwee Kueh @ Kim Keat Palm · Love the Chwee, Chwee, Jiggly Texture 水粿

Sims_Place_Toa_Payoh_Chwee_Kueh_Kim_Keat_Palm_水粿

After getting our rabbitfish at Mama Bay at Kim Keat Palm wet market, we got this chwee kueh at the attached food centre. I love the soft texture of the chwee kueh which felt like little rice custards.

Stall name: Sims Place Toa Payoh Branch Chwee Kueh


Address: 22 Lor 7 Toa Payoh, stall #01-55, Singapore 310019 (inside Kim Keat Palm Market & Food Centre)


Nearest MRT: 20 minutes walk from Toa Payoh station


Hours: Breakfast to lunch

Origin of Arak Bali · Mongol Invasion of Java & Rise of Majapahit Empire


When in Bali, try Arak Bali, the local traditional liquor (besides the usual international brands). Arak Bali is distilled from fermented coconut flower sap. Alcohol content ranges from 20% to a potent 50%.

Oh wait..., isn't Indonesia a Muslim majority country? How did Arak Bali become a Bali icon along with Babi Guling (Balinese roast pig)?

Where to Get Rabbit Fish During Chinese New Year · Mama Bay 馬媽媽 in Toa Payoh & Teo Heng @ Hong Lim

Rabbitfish_Mama_Bay_Teo_Heng_Hong_Lim

Eleventh day of Chinese New Year, we went on a rabbitfish trail this morning. No lah..., we just went to our usual places for rabbitfish pilgrimage. (If you know of other good rabbitfish places, please share with us in the comments 🙏 )

Eating rabbitfish is a must do tradition for Chinese New Year even though I am not Teochew (am Cantonese). For more on why Teochew people eat rabbitfish during Chinese New Year 👈 click

Bonding Kitchen · Fine Modern Peranakan Cuisine @ Orchard Gateway

Bonding_Kitchen_Peranakan_Orchard_Gateway

Lunch today at Bonding Kitchen Peranakan restaurant at Orchardgateway. The food was delicious and it was obvious from the finesse of the dishes that chef is meticulous, skilful and committed in bringing forth the best of Nyonya cuisine.

Restaurant name: Bonding Kitchen


Address: 277 Orchard Road, #02-18 Orchard, Singapore 238858 (Floor 2 of the Orchardgateway)


Nearest MRT: 3 minutes walk from Somerset station


Tel: 8860 9087


Hours: 11:30am - 3:00pm | 5:00pm - 9:30pm (Mon off)

Inspirasi Bedok Traditional Soto Ayam

Inspirasi_Bedok_Soto_Ayam

Inspirasi Bedok has one of the better soto ayam or Indonesian chicken soup in Singapore and only for $2.50 a serving (Feb 2022 price).

Stall name: Inspirasi


Address: 208B New Upper Changi Road, stall #01-64, Singapore 462208 (Bedok Interchange Hawker Centre)


Nearest MRT: 3 minutes walk from Bedok station


Hours: 8:00am - 7:00pm (Sun off)

Satay Bee Hoon @ Bedok Interchange Hawker Centre

Satay_Bee_Hoon_Bedok_Interchange_Hawker_Centre

I've had the curry chicken mee at Hock Hai stall at Bedok Interchange food centre before. I enjoyed it but kept hearing that Hock Hai serve a good satay bee hoon too. Finally tried it today as I was running an errand in Bedok (actually to pick up a book at Bedok library). Indeed, the satay bee hoon was pretty good.

Stall name: Hock Hai Curry Chicken Noodle 福海(芳林)咖喱鸡面


Address: 208B New Upper Changi Road, stall #01-58, Singapore 462208 (Bedok Interchange Hawker Centre)


Nearest MRT: 3 minutes walk from Bedok station


Hours: 9:00am - 11:00pm

A Very Brief History of the Melayu Kingdom

Muaro Jambi Buddhist Temple

There was an ancient Melayu kingdom based in Jambi, Sumatra, Indonesia between the 600s and 1300s. Knowing the history of the Melayu kingdom helps us better understand the roots of Malay cuisine.

Authentic Chai Chee Bak Chor Mee · Singapore Hunchback Minced Pork Noodle Soup 正正菜市肉脞面

Authentic_Chai_Chee_Bak_Chor_Mee_正正菜市肉脞面

This morning I enjoyed a nice authentic Chai Chee bak chor mee and great conversation with Tan Poh Chye 陈宝财, the grandson of Tan Lian Hock 陈联福 who created the iconic soup type of Singapore bak chor mee back in 1923.

Stall name: Authentic Chai Chee Bak Chor Mee 正正菜市肉脞面


Address: Block 83, MacPherson Lane, #01-263, Singapore 360083 (stall in MEETUP@83 kopitiam)


Nearest MRT: 10 minutes walk from Tai Seng station


Tel: 9695 6821


Hours: 9:00am - 8:00pm

Was There Ever a Lanfang Republic in West Kalimantan? 蘭芳共和國 • 真有其事吗?

There was once a supposed democratic entity in West Kalimantan referred to as Lanfang Republic which existed for 107 years between 1777 and 1884. It lasted longer than the kingdom of Singapura which existed for 99 years between 1299 and 1398.

Both Lanfang and Singapura were vanquished by foreign hegemons - Singapura by the Majapahit empire in 1398 and Lanfang by The Netherlands in 1884. The story of Singapura is still being told in Singapore but Lanfang has been reduced to an obscure footnote of history.

In 2013, Singapore Minister Chan Chun Sing cited the Lanfang Republic as a cautionary tale to remind Singaporeans not to take the country's long term survival for granted.  So, what was this Lanfang Republic?