Tony Johor Kaki Travels for Food · Heritage · Culture · History

Adventurous Foodie Geographer's Diary with 70 million+ reads 📧 johorkaki@gmail.com

Mighty Mekong ● River of Fish, Rice & Life


The nearly 5000 km long Mekong starts high up in the snowy Tibetan Plateau and flows south through Yunnan, China (where it is known as Lancang 澜沧), and every country in Indochina (Myanmar, Laos, Thailand, Cambodia and Vietnam), before draining into the South China Sea.

The Mekong is the twelfth longest river in the world, third longest in Asia. The longest rivers in Asia, the Yellow River and Yang Tze also start in the Tibetan Plateau but run east across China towards the sea.

Haikou Thien Hou Mazu Temple 海口天后宮


There are two Thien Hou temples in Haikou which are side by side each other at 89 Zhong Shan Lu, Longhua District, Haikou. One is a bigger temple complex while the other is a shrine (in a small former storehouse right next to it).

Where did Singapore Chicken Rice Come From? For the Answer, I Spent 10 Days in Wenchang Hainan 白切文昌雞飯

Wenchang_Chicken_Rice

Hainanese chicken rice is considered Singapore's unofficial national dish. Singaporeans and Malaysians sometimes argue about which of them created Hainanese chicken rice 🤔 (However, versions of Hainanese chicken rice can also be found in Thailand, Vietnam, and Chinese communities around the world.)

Mohinga @ No Name Myanmese Stall in Jiu Fu Food Court Peninsula Plaza Little Myanmar

Burmese (Myanmar) food is a paradox. It is not well known like Thai, Vietnamese or Indian food. Many people assume it is like Thai, Vietnamese, or Indochinese food. It is not - due to its geography and history, Myanmese food taste profile is unique.

Stall name: No name, no signboard


Address: North Bridge Rd, 111D/E, Peninsula PLaza, B1-07, S179098 (stall inside Jiu Fu Food Court)


Nearest MRT: 5 minutes walk from City Hall station


Hours: Morning till noon

Chang Ji @ Setia Indah ● Wild Caught Fish Soup, Noodle, Porridge 昌记鱼肉粿條

As I am an avid fish soup lover, I came down to Setia Indah after seeing buddy Aus Pe shared about a fish soup she enjoyed there.

Restaurant name: Restoran Chang Ji 昌记鱼肉粿條


Address: 43, Jalan Setia 3/4, Taman Setia Indah, 81100 Johor Bahru


Tel: +6016 750 4740


Hours: 6:00am - 3:00pm (Weds off)

Song Kee Fishball Kway Teow Noodle Soup📍Toa Payoh Lor 5 Hawker Centre

Passed by Lor 5 Toa Payoh Food Centre, and recalled that there is a Song Kee fishball noodle stall here which I haven't tried for a long time.

Stall name: Song Kee Kway Teow Noodle Soup


Address: 75 Lor 5 Toa Payoh, stall #01-20, Singapore 310075


Nearest MRT: 10 minutes walk from Toa Payoh and Braddell station


Hours: 10:30am - 10:30pm (Weds off)

History of Rong Cheng Bak Kut Teh ● Enter the Dragon 榕城肉骨茶


It is a great honour for me to meet up with Lim Hai Chay 林海星, a legend in Singapore bak kut teh history. We last met nearly a decade ago when he was still running his 22, Sin Ming Road stall - retired now, this morning we reminisced about bak kut teh over uncle Lim's favourite tea. Uncle Lim's wife, Mdm Chua was with us.

Eng Kee Bak Kut Teh @ Ang Mo Kio ● Everyone is Talking about their Braised Pork Trotter Shoulder 永记肉骨茶


Chit chatting with the owners of Song Fa Bak Kut Teh, and don't know how they mentioned that they love the braised pork leg at Eng Kee in Ang Mo Kio. Like that how lah....., that got me excited and craving it since hearing about it.

Stall name: Eng Kee Bak Kut Teh 永记肉骨茶


Address: Ang Mo Kio Ave 1, stall #01-04 Blk 341, Singapore 560341 (stall inside Teck Ghee Court Market & Food Centre)


Nearest MRT: 15 minutes walk from Ang Mo Kio station


Hours: 10:00am - 3:00pm (Mon off)

History of Myanmar / Burma for Foodies ● National Dish Mohinga & Lahpet Thoke


Compared to cuisine of its neighbours like Thailand, Vietnam, Malaysia, Singapore, India and China, Myanmnese food is relatively obscure to foreigners. 

Most people overseas would not have heard of, let alone tasted mohinga or lahpet thoke, both considered Myanmar's national dishes eaten throughout the 676 thousand sq km (larger than France) country of 54 million people, and more than 130 ethnicities.

Myanmese cuisine is unique due to its geography and history going back as far as 10,000 BC when humans first settled here during the stone age.

iO Italian Osteria @ HillV 2 Hillview ● Menu & Review ● Probably the Best Italian in the West


I can always rely on buddy Sean for the best places for Italian in Singapore. It was Sean who introduced me to Pastaria Abate, and on this Labour Day he brought me to iO Italian Osteria. I didn't expect to get such quality of Italian fare so far away from the city, but iO Italian Osteria got me  excited even though we only had a small sampling of dishes. Two of us only mah... . Actually, I think we ate a lot for two people 😄

Restaurant name: iO Italian Osteria


Address: 4 Hillview Rise, #02 - 01, Singapore 667979 (HillV 2 mall)


Nearest MRT: 5 minutes walk from Hillview station


Tel: 67107150


Hours: 11:30am - 10:00pm (opens 10am on Sat & Sun)

Fruitsome Asia Thai Maha Chanok Mangoes Sweet & Fragrant 🥭


When I go to Thailand, I always ended up trying to eat as much mangoes as possible as they are so sweet and fragrant 😋 But I am also too lazy to carry the mangoes back home, so I stuffed myself with mangoes while there 😬 🤭

Kopiloco Fuzhou Style Prawn Noodle Fridays ● Ultra Umami Bomb 💣

One of the most memorable dishes from my trips to Miri, Sarawak is Fuzhou or Hock Chew prawn noodle which I cannot find in Singapore or Peninsula Malaysia. I was pretty much resigned to the fate that I have to travel to Sarawak if I want to taste this dish again (not that I mind going to Sarawak again 😁 🕺 It's a most fascinating place).

But today, I found out that I can get it in Johor Bahru, right at our doorstep 😁

Restaurant name: Kopiloco by 1993


Address: 64 & 65, Jalan Tan Hiok Nee, Bandar Johor Bahru, 80000 Johor Bahru


Tel: +6017 764 6412


Hours: 7:30am - 5:00pm

Karu's Banana Leaf Curry Fish Head @ Upper Bukit Timah ☏ 67627284

When it comes to Indian style curry fish head (one of my favourite Singapore dishes), Karu's Banana Leaf is one that comes to the top of my mind. Another is Samy's. Both have something in common - they are near my old workplaces 😁

Restaurant name: Karu's Indian Banana Leaf Restaurant


Address: 808/810 Upper Bukit Timah Road, Singapore 678144


Nearest MRT: 10 minutes slow walk from Cashew station


Tel: 67627284


Hours: 10:30am - 10:00pm (Mon off)

Mongol Invasion of Java 1292 ● Rise of Majapahit Empire

The Mongolian Yuan dynasty ruled China from 1279 to 1368. The Mongol empire covered the whole of China from the Mongolian steppes to the south seas and its vassal states stretched even further beyond. Any state that did not submit to the Khan was invaded - Vietnam, Myanmar, Japan were invaded and Java's turn came in 1292.

Chola Invasion of Srivijaya • Sea Battle 1025

The Chola empire based in Cholapuram on the Coromendel Coast of southeast India lasted from 300BC to 1279. The Srivijaya empire based in Palembang in south Sumatra lasted from 601 to 1300. The contemporaneous empires from India and Indonesia respectively both straddled the Maritime Silk Road between Song dynasty China (960 - 1279) in the east and the Fatamid Caliphate (909 - 1171) in the west.

Old Bugis Kway Chap since 1973 @ Kopitiam Square Sengkang Sq

Stalking the 20 odd stalls at Kopitiam Square at Sengkang Square, I decided to settle for Old Bugis Kway Chap. Kway chap and the images of old Bugis Street in my mind probably did me in 😬

Stall name: Old Bugis Kway Chap


Address: 10 Sengkang Square, Singapore 544829 (stall inside Kopitiam Square)


Nearest MRT: 10 minutes walk from Buangkok station


Hours: 7:00am - 1:00am 

Cheng Hui 72 Handmade Wanton Noodle @ Seletar Hills Estate


Had this Malaysian style black sauce and lard wanton mee at Seletar Hills Estate decades ago. Stumbled upon it again while on my way to Seletar Hills Restaurant, so jio-ed buddy to come back for it today.

Stall name: Cheng Hui 72 Handmade Wanton Noodle 成輝 72 手工雲吞麵


Address: 2 Jalan Selaseh, #01-04, Singapore 808433


Hours: 7:00am - 3:00pm (Tues off)

Havelock Food Centre Covent Garden Prawn Noodle 哥文园虾面

Arrived at Havelock Food Centre before 8am and the longest queue today was at Covent Garden Prawn Noodle. So I lined up first and think later 🤭

Stall name: Covent Garden Prawn Noodle 哥文园虾面


Address: 22B Havelock Rd, Singapore 162022 (stall #01-24 in Havelock Cooked Food Centre)


Nearest MRT: 10 minutes walk from Tiong Bahru station


Hours: 6:00am - 1:00pm (Sun off)

Huang Kee Wanton Noodles with Unique Sauce @ 266 Sengkang Compassvale Bow 黄记


I am hunting for food in Sengkang and buddy Jordan suggested Huang Kee 黄记 Wanton Mee at Compassvale Bow.

Stall name: Huang Kee Wanton Noodles  黄记


Address: 266 Compassvale Bow, Singapore 540266


Nearest MRT: 10 minutes walk from Buangkok station


Hours: 9:30am - 6:00pm

Tanjong Pagar Fish Ball Noodle ● Mee Stall with the Longest Queue @ Maxwell Food Centre

There are about half a dozen fishball noodle / bak chor mee stalls at Maxwell Food Centre. The one with the longest queue ironically has the lowest social media visibility 🤔

Stall name: Tanjong Pagar Teo Chew Fishball Noodle - Maxwell Food Centre


Address: 1 Kadayanallur St, stall #01-74, Singapore 069184 (stall inside Maxwell Food Centre)


Nearest MRT: Doorstep of Maxwell Food Centre


Hours: 7:00am - 4:00pm (Sun off)

Review & Menu of Trattoria Nonna Linna @ 61 Cantonment Road ● Italian Answer to Crab Bee Hoon


Buddies who are decade old regulars of Trattoria Nonna Linna jio-ed (invited) me to join them for dinner there. I've never been to Italy before but the cooking here made me feel as close to being there as I ever felt.

Restaurant name: Trattoria Nonna Linna


Address: 61 Cantonment Road, Singapore 089757


Nearest MRT: 5 minutes walk from Outram Park station


Hours: 12:00 noon - 2:30pm | 6:00pm - 10:30pm (Mon off)

Review of Kopilicious Molek Sentosa Johor Bahru


Kopilicious is one of the several popular traditional Nanyang coffee joints in modern cafe settings in JB now.

Restaurant name: Kopilicious Molek


Address: 18, Jalan Molek 2/2, Taman Molek, 81100 Johor Bahru


Tel: +6011 1141 6718


Hours: 8:00am - 5:00pm

Review of Bak Chor Mee @ Jalan Mulia / Upper Aljunid Road Lian Bee Coffee Shop

Buddy Allan highly recommends this no name bak chor mee stall at Lian Bee Coffee Shop at Jalan Mulia off Upper Aljunid Road. So, here I am 😬

Stall name: Bak Chor Mee stall (no name)


Address: 375 Upper Aljunied Rd, Singapore 367860 (stall inside Lian Bee coffee shop)


Nearest MRT: 15 minutes walk from Mattar station


Hours: 3:00am - 1:00pm (Mon off)

Review of Big Prawn Noodle @ 205D Sengkang Compassvale Lane

Big_Prawn_Noodle_205D_Sengkang_Compassvale

First time food hunting in Sengkang, I was a little lost and didn't see anything that catches my attention at first sight. Ranted about my early morning predicament on Facebook and friends came to my rescue 🙏

Don Leow shared a list of his Sengkang favourites and it included Big Prawn Noodle which is near to where I was at that time.

Stall name: Big Prawn Noodle


Address: 205D Compassvale Lane, Singapore 544205 (stall inside P12 coffee shop)


Nearest MRT: 10 minutes walk from Sengkang station or Buangkok station


Hours: 8:00am - 6:00pm (Thurs off)

The Intangible Cultural Heritage of Singapore Bak Kut Teh

Bak kut teh is commonly found in Singapore. There are around 70 bak kut teh stalls or restaurants across Singapore today (2023). Not quite as ubiquitous as chicken rice, bak chor mee, nasi lemak or roti prata.

Brief History of Chili Crab in Singapore, Malaysia & Indonesia

Singapore chili crab

There are several different types of spicy crab dishes in Singapore, Malaysia and Indonesia. There is Singapore chili crab, Malaysian chili crab, Malaysian kam heong crab, Indonesian / Malaysian ketam balado, etc.

Tanglin Halt Original Peanut Pan Cake, Mei Jia Fried Bee Hoon and Cafe Kopi

Tanglin Halt Market & Food Centre may be small but it is one of my favourite hawker centres in Singapore. It is less than five minutes walk from Commonwealth MRT station, the building has a unique airy eye catching design, the stall mix is mostly heritage type dishes which I like, prices are retiree pocket friendly, and there's a warm kampung spirit here. It is a hyperlocal example of Singapore hawker culture, a UNESCO endorsed heritage of mankind.

Tanglin Halt Market & Food Centre


Address: 48A Tanglin Halt Road, Singapore 148813


Nearest MRT: 5 minutes walk from Commonwealth station

Review of Soon Kee Duck Rice @ Springleaf MRT Exit 2 ● Upper Thomson Road

Haven't been back at the area around Springleaf MRT for a decade already. I was first here in the 1980s. It's an ulu (outback) place but people were already coming here for the "Ampang" yong tau foo stalls (they are still here today).

Stall name: Soon Kee Duck Rice


Address: 08H Upper Thomson Road, Singapore 787114


Nearest MRT: At the doorstep of Springleaf MRT station exit 2


Tel: 997 68 9925


Hours: 9:00am - 4:00pm

Review of Teochew Beef Kway Teow Noodle ● Under Rated Heritage Stall @ Amoy Street Food Centre


Looking for brunch before the office crowd descend on Amoy Street Food Centre, I noticed a quiet Teochew beef noodle stall at a corner run by an elderly couple. Picked this for today's food "adventure" because I haven't had a beef noodle I like for a while.

Stall name: Teochew Beef Kway Teow


Address: 7 Maxwell Road, stall #01-23, Singapore 069111 (stall in Amoy Street Food Centre)


Nearest MRT: 10 minute walk from Maxwell & Telok Ayer stations


Hours: 9:00am - 2:00pm

Review of Alankar Kerala Restaurant @ 4 Norris Street Little India ● Kerala Parotta & Chatti Choru


We met up at Alankar Kerala Cuisine in Singapore's Little India. Jasmine said we are going to have "thread prata". I wondered what that is? 🤔

Anyway, four of us, we had great fun together. Tried just a sampling from Alankar's quite extensive menu. We liked the food, were all well stuffed but I kept saying we shall be back for more dishes throughout the meal 🤭

Restaurant name: Alankar @ Norris Road


Address: 4 Norris Road, Singapore 208249


Nearest MRT: 10 minutes walk from Tekka station


Tel: 9339 5729


Hours: 11:00am - 10:00pm