Johor Kaki Travels for Food

Singapore blog of true stories by johorkaki@gmail about best food, people & places around the world

Monday, 13 June 2016

Fatty Bak Kut Teh & Fish Head KL Old Klang Lama 肥佬肉骨茶与鱼头


Documenting my old haunts from my pre-blogging days, took us today to Fatty Bak Kut Teh & Fish Head 肥佬肉骨茶与鱼头 at the colourful Jalan Klang Lama or Old Klang Road in Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia.


I've been eating along the main street along Jalan Klang Lama from over a decade ago till today. I first came here to the aquarium shops looking for Luo Han fish during the silly craze around the early 2000s. The Fengshui fish which is supposed to bring good luck was bought and sold at ridiculous prices. I used to have 20 Luo Han fish and five 4-feet fish tanks. Now the Luo Han fish craze is long forgotten and all the aquarium shops on the lucrative bandwagon have disappeared.

Fatty Bak Kut Teh and Fish Head is still thriving and I still come here whenever I am in KL. Open from 6:00pm to 4:00am, it's a popular drinks night place to sober up for the drive home after partying.


Fatty 肥佬 still runs the 18 year old shop together with son Jason.


Initially, I am here for Fatty's steam Song fish (carp) heads - one of my favourite Cantonese street dish. Song fish naturally have a muddy river taste and when I can find a shop that manages it well, I will keep coming back. Hence, Fatty is one of my regular Song fish haunts. (My favourite is the Chan Sow Lin one in a flimsy shack among the car workshops along Jalan Dua but it is long gone to make way for development.) 

(There is another drinks night Song fish head & BKT place Ah Wang Bak Kut Teh 亚旺肉骨茶 200 metres further up Jalan Klang Lama in the direction of OUG which I also like, but that's also already closed for good 😭 The land Ah Wang was on acquired for development..... KL is like that. )


Steamed Song fish has nice soft juicy white flesh. When fresh, it's earthy taste is easily masked by the sauce, which in this case we have opted for a classic blanket of ginger mash 姜熔.

Many people say that the best part of Song fish head is the gelatinous skin on the face and the kissy lips. I agree. They also say the eyes are great. That's true also. Yum yum.


Actually, every thing about Fatty's steamed Song fish head is nice - including the mildly spicy ginger sauce. Just watch out for the bones which are like nails and knives.

Fatty's also have other sauces for their steamed Song fish head including their signature spicy chili sauce. I shall blog about that next time.


I can't remember when but later I also started to order and enjoy Fatty's bak kut teh.


My favourite cut is pig tail (not ribs) because I like the combination of tender meat, soft fat and tender chewy skin wrapped around a bone.


Fatty's broth is typical of KL BKT - it's well balanced sweet, herbal and savoury.


The non greasy broth is highly drinkable and addictive. Fortunately, refills are generously provided :-D


Our bill came to RM44.50 for all the food with rice and a drink.

👍 Nice steamed Song fish head paired with brothy sweet herbal bak kut teh. KL style street side meal which I find very satisfying.


Restaurant name: Fatty Bak Kut Teh & Fish Head 肥佬肉骨茶与鱼头
Address: A-5, Batu 4½, Jalan Klang Lama, Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia
GPS3.095691, 101.675378 / 3°05'44.5"N 101°40'31.4"E
Tel: +60 12-366 0035
Hours: 6:00pm - 4:00am (No fixed off day. Phone before you go.)

Non Halal

Date visited: 9 Jun 2016

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  1. have you tried the wantan mee stall there as well? one of my favourites.

  2. Its quite shitty. The soup so light! Like water with colouring. The meat lagi teruk, no flavour one. Chai koi shit. But the worse is the soup. I just had this shit accidentally, about 30mins ago. Pls don't come here

    1. Thank you for your comment. They do have fans who enjoy their food, for them to be in business for 20 years and still going strong. Otherwise, it's not possible to survive. KL is a highly competitive environment where there are (too) many outstanding eateries.


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